V6 loopers 200-225

Started by jody, March 01, 2005, 08:56:14 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

GotstaFish

Quote from: callyer on December 04, 2006, 11:08:10 PM
Thanks.. any and all info and suggestions help..... maybe Rowdy will stop by! ~c~

Doesn't warming up usually help a lean condition? That is what made me originally think it was running rich......
Rowdy has not logged in since March of 2005. But someone else may know.

BassBUFF

#26
Quote from: callyer on December 04, 2006, 11:08:10 PM
Doesn't warming up usually help a lean condition? That is what made me originally think it was running rich......

When you're "throttling up" you are opening the throttle plates allowing more air in. The fact that it helps when you push the key in (which adds more fuel) shows this as a lean condition like AB said. It sounds like it's getting lean on the crossover to the high speed jets which means you might still have a piece of trash somewhere in the carb(s). Or since it was modified and you're not sure of the jet size that was in it, you might consider going up a step or two on the primary (low speed) jets.

Did you take the plugs out of the carbs when you cleaned/rebuilt them?

callyer

Okay- more information.
All carbs ar jetted as follows:
Large one at the bottom of the float bowl is marked 79D on all cylinders
The two at the front of each carb (air) are marked 14 at the lower one, and a plug at the upper one.

Compression is as follows (reading like a book from top left to right and then the one's below it looking at the plugs)
110   100
115   110
110   110

The spark plugs are QL78YC

Prop is marked 600 68 H2 three blade

Air box i assume is gutted because it is just a hollow shell ( I am not sure what a stock one looks like.)

Please, anyone that can give me some info about possibly tweeking this setup feel free... and anyone that has Rowdy's phone number, feel free to give him a ring!

callyer

Bassbuff.. I did remove everything that could be removed (did not do portion with butterfly valves, just plastic) All new gaskets/ seals, and removed, cleaned and blew out everthing that could be, I just hit it all with compressed air again today, maybe I will get lucky something more came loose, but it appears these carbs are a clean as can be. maybe I should change out all the vacuum lines, also I wish I had some carb sticks that were for 6 cyl, mine are for my 4 cyl bikes, then i could at least sync the carbs (to verify).

Thanks,
Craig

BassBUFF

Rowdy hasn't been around in over a year, AB is our resident engine guru and I'm sure he'll have some more comments on this soon.

But until then here's my $.02. The compression looks good though. I'm not sure about the jet sizes, what does the manual say for stock (you DO have a manual, right)? There is a link and sync procedure in the manual that you really need to perform whenever the carbs come off. If you get the sync (throttle position to timing) portion out of whack you can get some of the symptoms you're experiencing. The air box is just a hollow shell in stock form.

Did you soak the carb bodies in cleaner? The plugs I was refering to are press to fit little domes in the carb body in the float bowl area.

callyer

Quote from: BassBUFF on December 11, 2006, 07:54:58 AM
Rowdy hasn't been around in over a year, AB is our resident engine guru and I'm sure he'll have some more comments on this soon.

But until then here's my $.02. The compression looks good though. I'm not sure about the jet sizes, what does the manual say for stock (you DO have a manual, right)? There is a link and sync procedure in the manual that you really need to perform whenever the carbs come off. If you get the sync (throttle position to timing) portion out of whack you can get some of the symptoms you're experiencing. The air box is just a hollow shell in stock form.

Did you soak the carb bodies in cleaner? The plugs I was refering to are press to fit little domes in the carb body in the float bowl area.

Sorry AB.. hope I didn't offend the guru on the block, hopefully he will stop by this post again and help me out! I had a guy at our local shop put the factory jets in, and it ran WAY worse(I dont' remember the sizes)! As far as manuals go, I have the third party Johnson/ evinrude.. BLAH BLAH year to BLAH  BLAH year service manual, not the factory on, but I think I remember seeing the link and sync stuff in there.. the shop also set the timing.. I think to 16/ 17 degrees (if I remember correctly) they may have done the sync at that time.

Maybe AB want's to take a road trip to sunny AZ and do some "fishin" ?(once I get him on the water i could force him to do engine repairs..... Or walk the plank!!!) HA HA

callyer

Oh, forgot......... I did not soak the carb bodies, sprayed them and blew them out about a million times, and used Q tips, there didn't seem to be any blockages, but I could be wrong.

AB

Sorry, I've been trying to track down one of my buddies that is a Johhson wizard.  I don't know too much about that carbed stuff, well, enough to get me into trouble.  Took me forever to get my carb issues figured out on my old Yamaha, I just don't feel confident enough to give advice on something as serious as carb jetting without being certain on what I am saying.

callyer

Thanks for not just throwin' out info even if you are not sure.. I appreciate that, it's nice to know people acutally care! Let me know if what your friend says if you get him tracked down..

Thanks again for all your help.

BassBUFF

Thanks AB! Let us know what you come up with.

Scottsdale95

Regarding the 2.7 225 heads with .700" deep chambers.  I could only find a set of the .675 deep heads, part number 0398269 for the 200STL/TX models.  Will these work as well?

Capt. BassinLou

Quote from: Scottsdale95 on January 30, 2021, 02:31:58 AM
Regarding the 2.7 225 heads with .700" deep chambers.  I could only find a set of the .675 deep heads, part number 0398269 for the 200STL/TX models.  Will these work as well?

Welcome to UB, I don't think you may get response to your question from these members, considering this thread is over 15 years old.

Donald Garner

Scottsdale95,

Sorry can't help with your question like Lou mentioned this topic is 15yrs old.  I had to read it twice just to check it out.  Good luck on getting your motor back in operating condition.

Anyway Welcome to the UltimateBass Family we're glad you're here.
Belton Texas part of God's Country
Stratos 285 Pro XL Yamaha 150 VMax; Lowrance Hook 7 Electronics; Minn Kota Foretrex Trolling Motor

G3 1548 Alwed Jon boat Yamaha 25hp outboard 

Scottsdale95

Let's blow the dust off of this one.

I was able to track down a NOS set of 2.7 200XP/GT heads with .675" deep chambers. Part 0398269
I assume these will work too? 

They are going on a 1997 Evinrude 200.  I understand I have to do the Marine-Tex cooling bridge mod to make them work on the 3 liter closed deck block.

Quote
"first thing I would do is find me a set of the 2.7 225 heads (they have .700" deep chambers)"-Way2slow


Scottsdale95

Quote from: jody on March 03, 2005, 02:32:24 PM
Guys while we are working on omcs  I also would like some help with a 99 175 johnson.Does it have idle relief holes and how hard is it to unhook the oil injection?Also did i understand that with compression only 110 on the 225 i donot need 106 pullovers????

From my 1997 OMC manual P/N 507269:

"If the VRO system is not used follow this procedure:
 
Install protective cap, P/N 315391, over the oil inlet to protect the VRO pump.  Secure with clamp P/N 322654.

  Disconnect the VRO wiring harness.  Seal engine harness Amphenol connector with cover , P/N 335655."

From what I gather is all you have to do is disconnect the pump and oil line.  Probably don't need of these parts either...hardware store.

EdwardRagsdaleFishing

Just stopping by to say hello. Lol

Princeton_Man

Quote from: EdwardRagsdaleFishing on January 12, 2024, 05:00:26 AMJust stopping by to say hello. Lol
Welcome aboard! ~c~

Did you intend to post this in an 18 year old thread?
Stratos 285 XL Pro 150 Evinrude ETEC

Dobyns Rods - LSCR Club