Selecting the Right Rod

[Bud Kennedy]

3s & 4s  Vs  5s & 6s

At the risk of looking foolish I have to ask this question about rod selection.  Like many, I have a number of rods in different power and tip ratings but I have come to realize that I really don't know for sure what is right for a particular application.

The things that got me to wondering about this are several reports from folks that they are loosing fish after the hook up.  Mostly it seems as the fish nears the boat but reports indicate that it can be anywhere along the fighting route.  Fish jump or roll or quick change of direction many things seem to be involved.  I however have noticed that when they are reporting this problem they are using rods in the 5&6 power category.  Folks using 3&4 power rods don't seem to report this problem as often,

OK, so here are the questions.  Are we as bass anglers more likely to over specify our rod requirements for the conditions and species we encounter?  If we fish water with little to no grass or wood type cover do we really need a 5 power rod.  Should more consideration be given to the baits we are using as the first step of rod selection or is it the environmental conditions.  The last question would then be.  What are the important considerations when selecting rod length?

I realize that these are basic questions but I really don't know the educated answers.

[Mike Cork]

Great question, maybe it all fall in line?

Meaning an angler wouldn't throw a frog in thick grass on a 3 power rod, that rod is meant for a crankbait, or treble hook baits, again we won't through treble hook baits in the thick grass. So, we've decided we're fishing thick grass, so now we look at baits, then match the rod to our tools.

If you are ripping rattle traps through grass you would try to compromise in the 4 power range and use rod length to help with hookset versus keeping a bass pinned with the smaller hooks.

One could choose his bait first but it's not so easily given. I could choose to fish a frog around cypress trees. No grass around so I can use a lighter tip to help with pitching under and around limbs.

It's a combination of everything I reckon. I say fish what allows you to cast well and set the hook solidly. If you start loosing bass, then make adjustment based on what's happening. Are you not getting a good hookset, or is the bass just shaking the bait.

[Bud Kennedy]

Nope, not having a problem at all just reacting to some other comments about lost fish.  And then realized that I and other may not know the correct way to select a rod.  I however am questioning the reason for so many heavy duty rods if indeed the conditions don't call for it.  I have noticed that many recommendations to our fellow members are trending towards longer and stronger rods.  That may be a good thing but at this moment I don't buy the reasoning for many.  If you are fishing in the heavy uglies then ok I get it.  But mostly open weed free water I don't get it.  Kinda the same using 65 pound braid when fishing open water in a place where 5 lb fish is considered a monster.  Not everyone is fishing for swamp donkeys.  Seems like many want a rod that they can use to pull their tow vehicles out of a ditch.

[LabRat]

After years of over thinking and over complicating, I've started to look at rod powers in categories and stick to them.

Finesse:
2 power-light wire gauge, exposed hook
3 power-lighter wire weedless (driving the hook through plastic on a hookset)

Workhorse:
4 power-Anything and everything in between

Jigs:
5 power-jigs, football heads, flipping around wood/grass/docks

Heavy cover/slop fishing:
6 power-frogs and flipping into slop

I try to stick to those to help myself from overthinking and going overboard. To touch on your question about length...once again, there are countless arguments to weigh in on length. My vote goes to fishing what you're comfortable with. I like to stick around 7'4 for everything. I feel that gives me enough backbone with enough tip to do pretty much anything. I have a few 7 foot rods for bank fishing around trees as well. You could sit and research for hours the perfect rods to do each and every task in each and every condition. I've found that once I stopped over thinking and stuck to the same rods in different powers, I started focusing more on how I fished and how I worked the baits and that has helped me drastically. Sure, there may be better options for certain things, but I'm on the team of keeping all my rods/reels the same and only changing the powers/gear ratios/lines.

[Mike Cork]

Labrat I like your list


Bud, I guess I might be one that recommends a stouter rod than necessary because that's what I use. But on any given cast I might hook an eight to ten pounder. Obviously not everyone is lucky enough to live in shut a lovely part of the country. I also use braid almost exclusively because I can. Our water is dirty or murky or coffee colored depending on the time of year. Braid just lets you feel better.

Back to rods, IMO the lighter the rod you can use the better. Your casting will be more accurate, your distance will be better, and you'll be able to control a fish better. However, there is a fine line between just right and too light. Too light and it's hard to cast, the bait flies straight up in the air and as bass will own you. SO it's easier to recommend a Medium heavy for most applications.

[zippyduck]

Bud,

Here is my take on it and I am one of those losing fish on heavier action rods.

The need for a heavier rod comes with the cover but it also has less bend to keep a fish pinned. They are built to get the basses head up and keep them coning to the boat. do not play a fish with the heaviest action rod as it will come loose with the slightest error in line control.

Lighter rods will keep fish pinned much better even with less penetration with the hook. The more moderate bend will help keep them pinned but also will allow the fish to make runs for cover.

It comes down to which way do you want to lose fish.

Now in my cases I was fishing the bank and standing 7 feet above the water. When hooking big fish I tried to climb down the rocky bank and stay dry while trying to land the fish. Sometimes it worked others not so much. Winding the fish up seven feet on mono was not an option to me.

Labrat,

Very nice list! 

[Bud Kennedy]

Now I think we are getting down to the reason for my post.  Fishing heavy cover certainly requires some different tools to pull the fish out of what ever cover they are buried in.  My point is that I honestly believe that in light or little cover the 3 or 4 power rod is a better choice for the reasons that you have mentioned.  Here in the South most of our angers are speed winders when it comes to bringing a fish to the boat or to the shore.  This makes me wonder if actually playing a fish is becoming a lost art.  Having spent many years in New  England one learns that you must play the fish and not try to horse them in. Trying to do that with a smallmouth on lighter tackle is just inappropriate and most likely would result in a lost fish. 

Here I fished Santee for 7 years and I assure you there is as much heavy cover there as anyplace in the country.  Heavy tackle was the choice of most anglers.  Santee is also a location where squarebills, spinnerbaits and jerkbaits are commonly used but seldom on heavy tackle.  That is mostly for the pitchers and flippers and punchers that are searching the ugly locations in the lake.

[zippyduck]

Bud,

If I can get away with it the 4 power it is my favorite. I get good hooksets and can play a fish very well with it.

Now you mentioned longer rods in the OP. I favor using the longest rod possible for just about everything. I feel a longer rod moves more line faster, getting a better hookset. And a 735 has more rod bend than a 705. Thus giving you a better rod to play fish with.
Now the few times I use shorter than 7'3" is when I use a jerkbait or other lure that needs to be work down towards the water and when skipping in tight conditions.

[Dink Dawg]

I think most bass anglers try not to " over specify " but there are a couple techniques that do lend to a more specialized rod, drop shot and punching come to mind. Most of us try to find a model or power that can over lap from various techniques.

I tend to fish a faster action than most but keep the power in the range it's designed for.  I'm more concerned about my line type than rod power, within reason, when it comes to pressuring a fish out of heavy cover.

Most of my rods, which are virtually all Dobyns fall in the 4 power.  The remainder are a split between 3 and 5 powers. I have no need for a 6 power rod because the cover situations don't require it.  I'm convinced how fast the action is plays a greater role in hook sets that the power designation. If the rod lock up quick the hook will penetrate. The quality of lines, hooks and materials are so much better than what we fished 30 years ago. You don't need a pool cue to fish a worm anymore.

When I started bass fishing finding a rod over six feet was a challenge.  short rods may cast with better accuracy for most but they don't create arc on a hook set that moves as much line and limits the the amount of blank to create a power to action ratio as a longer blank. That's why I like longer rods myself.  When you factor the incredible balance Gary builds into his rods, extra length just doesn't feel tip heavy so why wouldn't you fish a longer rod?  If it's comfortable, length has it's advantages.

Last bit I forgot: spinning rods are either 2 or 3 powers and powers are dependent on lure weight only. Good dialogue.