Battery Charging Issues

Resquivel · March 20, 2019, 04:41:08 PM

I have a 2013 PT175 TXW and my batteries won't receive a full charge from the on-board Guest 2 bank 8 amp charger (factory). Yesterday, I replaced the trolling motor battery with a new Interstate 27 series (same as factory). However, I still have the original Interstate cranking battery (old, but no issues). After 12+ hours of charging, my on-board charger is still displaying red and "charging". I checked both battery levels with a tester and they both registered 12.56v (medium levels). To my understanding, a fully charged 12v battery should read 12.7v. Prior to swapping out the tolling motor battery, the on-board charger stayed in red and "charging" mode with the old batteries. So I'm getting the same charging results with a new/old battery setup. Need some advise...

Few questions:

Is the age of the original cranking battery preventing the on-board charger to not fully charge both batteries?

Do I now have a bad on-board charger?

If I replace the original cranking battery, will the on-board charger operate properly and fully charge the two new batteries?

Thanks in advance!

FloridaFishinFool · March 20, 2019, 04:45:30 PM

In lead acid batteries, over time a scum forms on the surface of the lead plates. It is a sulfate coating that prevents charging and discharge accuracy and completeness because the circuit inside the battery is compromised and slowly stopping the transmission of electrical energy.

They will get to a point where they won't accept a charge and won't have anything to discharge either because the battery is basically dead.

So there are desulfation products out there, both in electrical desulfation chargers and chemical desulfation to increase battery potency and life.

And no, don't ever believe a perfectly good 12 volt battery fully charged will always read 12.7 volts. Not going to happen. Every battery is different.

Hope this helps some...

Forgot to add...

Chargers are programmed to shut off with a pre-programmed current measurement across the plates. So as a battery is charged up and gets closer to being fully charged the amperage, or current drawn into the battery for the charge reduces and gets less and less until the battery is fully charged and current draw is at its programmed minimum, then the charger shuts down.

If the charger stays on, it is because the battery is no longer accepting a charge, but the current being drawn is still high enough to keep the charger on trying to get it done.

More than likely the best option is new batteries, and you might consider treating them with INOX or similar percentage of Cadmium sulfate to add a couple extra years of battery life to them.

Resquivel · March 20, 2019, 04:53:13 PM

Quote from: FloridaFishinFool on March 20, 2019, 04:45:30 PM
In lead acid batteries, over time a scum forms on the surface of the lead plates. It is a sulfate coating that prevents charging and discharge accuracy and completeness because the circuit inside the battery is compromised and slowly stopping the transmission of electrical energy.

They will get to a point where they won't accept a charge and won't have anything to discharge either because the battery is basically dead.

So there are desulfation products out there, both in electrical desulfation chargers and chemical desulfation to increase battery potency and life.

And no, don't ever believe a perfectly good 12 volt battery fully charged will always read 12.7 volts. Not going to happen. Every battery is different.

Hope this helps some...

Thanks for the quick reply! Really good info, appreciate it.

Would you suggest replacing the old cranking battery then? Will the two new batteries allow the charger to fully charge them based on the two new batteties on the receiving end? Thanks

FloridaFishinFool · March 20, 2019, 04:58:00 PM

I would take each battery separately.

Get yourself a battery tester load box and test the load capability of each battery at full charge if you can get it there. If you can't replace the battery.

When you try charging batts hooked up to the boat wiring harness, there could be a small current drain somewhere that is keeping the charger from turning off when the batteries might actually be fully charged.

The trigger to turn off chargers is a current drop to a specified level. If the charger never sees that, it won't ever turn off.

For example, if I leave on my powered speakers while charging, the extra drain from the electronics is keeping the overall current draw off the charger high enough to keep it on constantly.

Disconnect one side of the battery from the harness and charge and test batteries on their own with nothing hooked up. Your other battery might be good.

Resquivel · March 20, 2019, 05:12:23 PM

Quote from: FloridaFishinFool on March 20, 2019, 04:58:00 PM
I would take each battery separately.

Get yourself a battery tester load box and test the load capability of each battery at full charge if you can get it there. If you can't replace the battery.

When you try charging batts hooked up to the boat wiring harness, there could be a small current drain somewhere that is keeping the charger from turning off when the batteries might actually be fully charged.

The trigger to turn off chargers is a current drop to a specified level. If the charger never sees that, it won't ever turn off.

For example, if I leave on my powered speakers while charging, the extra drain from the electronics is keeping the overall current draw off the charger high enough to keep it on constantly.

Disconnect one side of the battery from the harness and charge and test batteries on their own with nothing hooked up. Your other battery might be good.

Thanks again for the great advise! I appreciate your help.

FloridaFishinFool · March 20, 2019, 05:23:09 PM

Good luck and please report back and let us know what you find out!

Smallie_Stalker · March 21, 2019, 12:37:47 PM

Do you know anyone that has a portable charger for marine batteries? If so you could try charging both the old and new batteries with it.

If you get a full charge from the portable unit then you know it's the onboard charger that's the problem and not the batteries.

Just an added suggestion to the great advice FFF has already given.

Sent from my LG-H932 (LG V30 Plus) using Tapatalk

Resquivel · March 21, 2019, 01:25:06 PM

Quote from: Smallie_Stalker on March 21, 2019, 12:37:47 PM
Do you know anyone that has a portable charger for marine batteries? If so you could try charging both the old and new batteries with it.

If you get a full charge from the portable unit then you know it's the onboard charger that's the problem and not the batteries.

Just an added suggestion to the great advice FFF has already given.

Sent from my LG-H932 (LG V30 Plus) using Tapatalk

Thank you for your help. Appreciate your input. I will definitely give that a shot. Thanks

Oldfart9999 · March 22, 2019, 06:17:11 AM

You've been given some good advice. There are some videos on youtube that show you how to troubleshoot your charger, you may want to google them. Many folks put a master switch on their batteries, that way there is no chance of the battery draining from an open circuit, good safety measure also. 5 years isn't bad for battery life specially the BPS batteries they tend to put the cheapest into their boats, helps cut costs, makes for faster replacements. Many here go for higher quality batteries, they cost more but give better service. It can be a good idea to use the largest battery that will fit, that can mean more time on the water and in an emergency longer running life.
Rodney

Resquivel · March 22, 2019, 12:15:48 PM

Quote from: Oldfart9999 on March 22, 2019, 06:17:11 AM
You've been given some good advice. There are some videos on youtube that show you how to troubleshoot your charger, you may want to google them. Many folks put a master switch on their batteries, that way there is no chance of the battery draining from an open circuit, good safety measure also. 5 years isn't bad for battery life specially the BPS batteries they tend to put the cheapest into their boats, helps cut costs, makes for faster replacements. Many here go for higher quality batteries, they cost more but give better service. It can be a good idea to use the largest battery that will fit, that can mean more time on the water and in an emergency longer running life.
Rodney

Thank you for your input.

Resquivel · March 24, 2019, 03:35:47 PM

UPDATE

I took my old cranking battery to Batteries Plus so they can evaluate the condition of it. They tested it and the battery was still putting out decent CCA's. They advised the battery looks good for being six years old and it doesn't appear to be the cause of my issues. They advised the on-board charger is mostly likely my issue.

Based on everyone's recommendation, I ordered a new on-board charger. I ordered the NOCO Genius GEN2 charger from Amazon. I installed it in the boat and hooked them up. I immediately received a voltage reading over 12.56. Also, I was able to fully charge the old battery. It took approximately 2.5 hours to charge the new one and 8 hours for the old one. I checked the batteries this morning and they are well within the proper parameters. I know the old battery is probably on it's last season, but I am pleased that the issue was resolved.

Thanks for everyone's help! I greatly appreciate it!

FloridaFishinFool · March 24, 2019, 04:19:51 PM

Awesome!

Never know which way its going to roll, but glad its solved.

Oldfart9999 · March 24, 2019, 07:20:25 PM

Good deal!!!
Rodney

roger_w · April 23, 2020, 11:50:37 PM

Quote from: Resquivel on March 24, 2019, 03:35:47 PM
UPDATE

I took my old cranking battery to Batteries Plus so they can evaluate the condition of it. They tested it and the battery was still putting out decent CCA's. They advised the battery looks good for being six years old and it doesn't appear to be the cause of my issues. They advised the on-board charger is mostly likely my issue.

Based on everyone's recommendation, I ordered a new on-board charger. I ordered the NOCO Genius GEN2 charger from Amazon. I installed it in the boat and hooked them up. I immediately received a voltage reading over 12.56. Also, I was able to fully charge the old battery. It took approximately 2.5 hours to charge the new one and 8 hours for the old one. I checked the batteries this morning and they are well within the proper parameters. I know the old battery is probably on it's last season, but I am pleased that the issue was resolved.

Thanks for everyone's help! I greatly appreciate it!

Came here to say thanks as well, guys. I found many great ideas here, so I've been able to figure out what's wrong with my battery (3 years of usage and sudden failure). It was chargers fault in the end, replaced with a different one and now voltage reading is fine!

Bassinkorea · April 23, 2020, 11:52:11 PM

Quote from: roger_w on April 23, 2020, 11:50:37 PM
Came here to say thanks as well, guys. I found many great ideas here, so I've been able to figure out what's wrong with my battery (3 years of usage and sudden failure). It was chargers fault in the end, replaced with a different one and now voltage reading is fine.

Good deal, thanks for coming here to update us