Sundolphin Sportsman upgrades

[The Rooster]

EDIT - This thread here on Ultimate Bass contains the progress photos of the boat at different stages during the modification process. It has all the necessary details of materials used, hardware and sizes used, and some of the how-to guidelines on making each modification, and even some ideas for future development. Lastly, there is a section showing how the boat performs when launched and reloaded. There are also various updates, all in bold print so they're easy to find, in different sections, and they tell how each upgrade performed on the water and over long term use. I recently went through the thread again, editing it to add bold and underlined titles to each section also, to make referencing easier for anyone who may be interested in making certain parts for themselves.

Below this line begins the original post. ENJOY and good luck on your own boats!

I have a little Sundolphin Sportsman 8-1/2 foot long boat. I love it, but with two people space can be tight. So I built a set of rod racks from PVC gray electrical conduit and fastened them onto a base I made from PVC boards using conduit clamps and stainless steel hardware. They should be totally waterproof. The rods sit at a 15 degree angle upright, like in a kayak. The idea is to allow fishing from one side of the boat for two people while extra rods remain stowed behind you on the opposite side. If you switch sides just move the rods to the other rack. Each person can take 3 rods, use one and stow two. The other, always empty rack, can be used temporarily for holding a rod to allow bait rigging with two free hands. The rod holders are 8 inches long so they come way up the handle but remain low enough to fish over top of on the side you cast from. I chose a 15 degree angle to allow elbow room and to reduce the potential for accidental snagging from an overhand cast.

Also I needed a place to stow two paddles so I fastened a set of mounts to the sides of the boat. They fit the paddles loosely to allow ease of popping them off and NOT taking the mounts off with them. The plastic hull is maybe 1/8 inch thick. I was afraid of pulling off the mounts, but everything feels solid so maybe my fears are unfounded.

Here are a few pics for others to get ideas from. I searched online in vain for upgrades others had done to these boats, and I did find some but it was few and far between, so I will be adding lots more photos as I develop my own vessel to make sure these wonderful little boats don't get overlooked in the wave of kayak craze that has swept the fishing world.

EDIT - My pic file sizes are too large and have the wrong file extentions on them (except for the one posted, don't know how this happened) so I can't post them until I've edited them. I did quite a bit of edit work with screenshots and then resizing, but I can't take off enough of the pics to meet the requirements without shaving them so small they aren't worth seeing, both in size and quality. But never fear! I'll figure this out and get some pics posted.

[the_huber_show]

The rod holder looks great!  Very clean looking.


As far as the other pictures just use an image hosting site and you won't have to worry about editing them.

[The Rooster]

ROD RACKS PART 1, FABRICATION and TEST FIT
BOAT PADDLE HOLDERS

Thank you, I forgot about Imgur. I used it to post these pics.


These are in no particular order and show pics during various stages of test fitting of the racks and paddle holders. I used a router table to round the edges of the PVC pipes to smooth them out. I also put in a couple of pics to show the construction of the PVC bases. PVC boards are gluable the same as standard PVC pipe using the same solvent glue and cleaner that plumbers use. I was worried about them bonding since each one is made from three separate pieces so I added screws to the back also. I don't think they were necessary though. The glue set up very well. If I were doing this again I'd use something besides the built in dip stick to spread the glue. I felt it was drying before I got it applied end to end and that it didn't stick as well as I'd like so I added screws. Later I took some back out to attempt a reglue but it wasn't needed or even possible. The glue cured very solidly.

More pics once I give the boat a spring cleaning and set it up for use. I'll also give some details later on the Harbor Freight trailer and the modifications I made to it that allows me to launch and reload this boat just like a much larger bass boat for total convenience.

[Bassinkorea]

Very nice work with thos rod holders. They look really professionally made.
Looks like a fun rig to fish out of, enjoy it   

[Lightening Rod]

That's a nifty rig. I like that.

[The Rooster]

SEAT LEG PADDING

Several posts to follow. I got a lot done on the boat today. Spring is here and someone out there needs this info so I want to get it all posted. Y'all have to forgive the atrocious look of my boat. It's disgustingly dirty from last year but it will get cleaned up soon.

First up, the seats. The metal frames on these hurt your legs after sitting with the seat rotated all day to fish. My calves have suffered more than once from contact with the square metal tubing used for the framing. The solution is simple and certainly isn't a secret, but I want to share my methods so it's downright simple for the next guy. Get two lengths of 3/4" pipe insulation with the adhesive seals for sticking the split seam together. Use a throwaway utility knife with the breakaway blades so you have a nice sharp and long blade. Cut eight 10" lengths of the insulation. One stick of the stuff isn't quite enough for the two seats these boats come with but two sticks gives you plenty to make a few mistakes and still have enough to do it. It's dead easy if you just lay it out on a work surface along side of a ruler and use the knife to gently saw it in half, and as you near the bottom of the cut just roll the insulation and allow the blade to finish cutting on through. It's easy to make nice straight cuts this way. This is a cheap and totally worth it mod. Heck, it's totally necessary and you'll agree after a few trips out without it.

For now I'm relying on just the adhesive seal to hold the foam on the legs. If it comes loose then I'll add zip ties. I like a clean look so we'll see how it goes.

UPDATE - the adhesive seal proved not to be enough to hold the foam padding on by itself. I have since added a zip tie on each end of the padding, so 8 ties per seat frame with 2 on each leg. This has worked fine since adding the ties.

[The Rooster]

ROD RACKS PART 2, INSTALL and HARDWARE SIZES

I want to revisit the rod racks from an earlier post above. Today they were permanently installed and now you can see how I did it with two large #12 screws on each end, 2" long. I applied clear silicone caulk to the holes in the boat gunnels before putting the racks in place and running the screws in. This ensures water doesn't find its way in through a screwhole. Also look closely, you'll see an additional thin strip I added below the pipes to prevent them from sliding downward. This is not shown in the original pics. It might not be needed but I don't wanna find out. It sticks out just far enough to catch the pipe and not into the open area of the pipe where the rod handles would contact it.

I had access to tools some guys might not have as I built these so anyone thinking of a build needs to consider that, but it's still possible to make something similar with tools most people already own, though it might require a design change on the base. I used a table saw to cut the wedged angles visible in the first post that form the back and filler piece in the middle of the bases. Used a drill press with a forstner bit to bore the mount screw holes also. Used a miter saw to cut the pipe lengths to make straight cuts, and a router table to round the edges of the pipes and the bases. These are things some may not be able to do for lack of an outfitted wood shop like I have. So I posted these only to show what can be done and to give others ideas.

To fit as shown, the bases are 16-3/4" long and the pipes are evenly spaced across that span. Pipes are 8" long and are made from 1-1/2" PVC electrical conduit, but plain white PVC drain pipe or black ABS would also work and the conduit clamps still fit. I used #14 panhead screws 3/4" long to hold the conduit clamps onto the PVC bases, and there is still some adjustment room. The clamps have BIG holes (they're intended for lag screws to hold your electric on the side of your house, not rod racks!) so #14 screws are not too big at all. I drilled the holes for them in the PVC bases just using a drill in hand with a brad point bit for easy starting and no slippage, first premarking the locations for each screw and then drilling and installing as I went. All PVC fittings are interchangeable on PVC pipe and conduit, fittings such as tees, couplers, elbows, clamps, and others, so get creative, mix and match and pick the one that is the color you like best. Briefly I considered using black ABS pipe with the gray clamps, but ABS is expensive compared to PVC drain pipe or PVC conduit. However it is half the weight, is more rigid, and supposedly has more strength, so if that matters then there is its advantage (it might matter in the case of making a rack for a kayak). I went with PVC based on cost, and I actually think it feels a bit more rugged and less brittle than ABS.

For a clean look, use acetone to get that stamped lettering off of PVC pipes. It is available in paint supply stores but you can also just use nail polish remover. I got it cheap at the dollar store and it is 100% acetone nail polish remover. Lettering wipes right off. It's also supposed to make it easier to paint these if you wanted another color, by first rubbing the entire pipe down with acetone. It removes the glossy surface for a matte finish and lets paint stick to it better. Acetone will even clean the surface of the boat if you get silicone caulk all over it, after you first clean the excess caulk off.  Don't ask me how I know this, LOL!

The following pics show the racks mounted, and the amount of elbow room I still have. I'm seated with my elbow against my side and arm straight out. Rods are in the racks and mounted at a 15 degree outward leaning angle. I have a comfortable space and don't feel crowded at all. I even have room left in the trays on the sides of the boat for an additional rod to lay if I filled the racks up and needed another, as shown by my spinning rod laying down for a test fit. My rods pass all the way through and rest against the boat itself at the bottom. The triggers and reels do not contact the top of the tubes. Nothing is stressed at all. These are common rods too, 6'6" off the shelf stuff, to give you an idea what to expect.

[The Rooster]

ALUMINUM RULERS FOR MEASURING FISH, CUT TO SIZE and INSTALL

Alright, I'm comfortable and have a place to store rods. But the idea is to catch fish! And what do I wanna do as soon as it gets in the boat? Weigh and measure! Weighing is easy. Measuring is easier said than done. Well.......I solved that. Might be a bit overkill but I won't have to look for a ruler again, and I won't have to struggle with holding the fish and ruler at once either.

I got these aluminum yardsticks at Lowe's for $3 each. Cut them to fit the spaces available on the miter saw, drilled holes, caulked and mounted using stainless screws. No rust. Looks good. Gonna be highly convenient, and though I didn't intend it, their yellow color goes well with the yellow paddles. I like the overall themed look. Maybe I need some Skeet Reese matching rods now. Hmm.....

If you look at the lengths I cut, no two are the same. Went with the space available, but it looks like you might expect to catch bigger fish from the port side of the boat. LOL!

Last pic is an overall look at the interior of the finished boat. Finished for now that is.


  <--- Do I have a secret desire for yellow and black? Look at my workshop in the background. I see yellow and black tools and receptacles. I've noticed DeWalt tools are looking better and better also.

[The Rooster]

GENERAL BOAT, TRAILER, TOWING, LAUNCH, STORAGE, and PRICING INFO

Now for some info on the whole rig and the trailer. I bought the trailer at Harbor Freight. Paid about $280 but I've actually seen it cheaper. Didn't give color a thought but I do know this SAME trailer is available under other names and comes in black. It would match better but at the time I didn't see any color themes coming. I'm liking this gray, yellow, and black. Would you believe my tackle bag is also bright yellow? I swear I didn't plan any of it! A red trailer doesnt quite match now. Oh well.

Anyway, the trailer is designed to fold up but I bolted it together all solid so it doesn't do that. I added two 2x10's for sliding the boat on and off, and this further stiffened it. 2x12's would better fit the pontoons if I were to do it over, but these work. I also added two 2x4's as guides on the sides. The boat fits perfectly between the boards, and the trailer is exactly the width needed for all of this to work. The chamfered cuts on the ends of the boards are unnecessary but I thought it made the trailer look better. I drilled and bolted the wider boards to the trailer with galvanized hardware, recessing the bolts so the boat slides on and off freely. I simply fastened the guide boards on the sides with deck screws and these serve to put the boat right where it belongs every time. It's been 3 years since and no problems have arisen yet.

The boat is held on with long straps. I run one longways through the seats to hold them on for trailering, and this strap also keeps the boat from sliding forward or backwards. I use two more across the boat just to add pressure to hold the boat down. Not sure if they're even needed but I know they help and if nothing else it means I always have a spare if the lenghtwise one fails. The strap setup also works well to "build a tent" when I cover it with a tarp for storage. I got the straps and bungees at Harbor Freight also. I had been worried that the new rod racks would get in the way when the boat is covered but they don't interfere in the least. It's like I planned it. I didn't. It was a happy accident.

I have towed with the paddles on the sides before, but only with velcro straps. Never with the holders I just installed. The velcro was tight but these holders are loose. I suspect they'd be fine on a 20 minute trip at 35mph to the local lake, but not at highway speed without additional straps.

Finally, I move this boat around at home using a trailer dolly. Turns it into a great big wagon. I added a tongue jack for if and when I ever need to unhook the trailer from the truck but maybe the dolly isn't handy just then.

At the launch ramp, I launch this boat the same as a 20' bass boat, putting the trailer right down in the water. I lash a 25' rope to the front rope cleats (pics later when I launch for the first time this year), then tie it to an anchor point in my truck bed, leaving a few feet of slack, and leave the rest of the rope lenght just laying in the bed. I back down the ramp and put the trailer in the water. Boat comes off and floats out a few feet. I set the brake, get out and untie it, pull it to the dock and tie off, then go park. When I'm done for the day I put the trailer in the water and pull the boat on with the rope. Its super simple. These boats were designed so they can be hauled in a truck bed and packed by hand to the water's edge, but why struggle if you don't need to?

As this boat sits I believe I've got about $1300-1400 in the whole thing and I bought everything brand new, including the battery charger and all accessories. The base price of just the boat with two seats ranges anywhere from $400-550 depending on where you buy it, so SHOP AROUND! Trolling motor (not shown) is a 30# Minn Kota Endura, with an Everstart group 27 deep cycle battery. Range is quite good, I have taken trips on the water where the boat has covered over 5 miles of water round trip, from the ramp and back again. I've trolled and fished for hours in it and never used more than 30% of the charge. I always have 70% or more battery life left when I get back, which I recently learned is ideally how much you want to discharge your battery to prolong its life.

[The Rooster]

POTENTIAL BOAT RUDDER IDEA (this idea was eventually scrapped in favor of the much nicer, designed from scratch model that I made and installed, shown in a later post below)

Another project I'm looking at is making a rudder. My motor is used in the front and I've noticed rear end drift is a real problem. I read it can be for kayaks too, and they say the reason why is that the front of a kayak in the water is considered "anchored" while the rear will drift. This is no kayak, but it is a small plastic boat, so maybe it's a kayak's fat ugly cousin? LOL! Anyway, I'm applying the same principle and I figure a rudder will help with the drift. I plan to make one from a collapsible boat paddle. For now, all you get is a pic showing what I want to do. This project is in the development stages.

[the_huber_show]

Well done!  Love these types of threads with pictures of progress

[The Rooster]

UPDATE - The "paddle as a rudder" idea has been completely scrapped in favor of a custom built design, one that not only looks far better but will function better as well. It will be made entirely of waterproof materials and the finished appearance complements the boat, looking as though it belongs on it instead of an oddity like the paddle would have.  Construction begins this Saturday, and pics to follow. I'll be happy to share techniques to duplicate it, and anything else seen here, but I must say the custom nature of this rudder will require tools and skills the same as those used on the rod racks.

[SteveTX]

Good read. I like the ingenuity of builds like this. looking forward to the rudder pics.

[The Rooster]

FINAL DESIGN BOAT RUDDER FABRICATION AND INSTALL

I got my rudder built and installed today. Some might not find this to be so affordable, or even desirable at the cost, plus the level of work that went into it. As it sits I have $87 in it, not counting the use of the leftover PVC pipe and boards from the rod rack project. If I had to start from scratch and put this together without having materials onhand already it would have exceeded $100 easily, probably in the range of $120. At that price you could just go ahead and get a second trolling motor and add the bullnose rudder to it. That would only be around $140. For me it just made better sense to do this, since it saved a few bucks plus I didn't want to lose space that a motor handle would take up pointing into the boat. I had to buy 4 of the clamps I used, but I only needed 2. A set of 4 at $25 on Amazon was the minimum though. Otherwise the cost might have been a little less.

Materials used were:
PVC 1-1/2" conduit (pipe) cut to 30" long.
Two pipe caps and one coupler with the center stop grinded out of the coupler.
PVC 1x6 board, cut and stacked for the mount on the stern.
PVC 1x3 board, cut and stacked, then shaped to fit inside the pipe.
A 12x18 HDPE cutting board for the rudder fin.
Two aluminum stage light clamps, 2" clamp diameter (48-51mm). They fit 1-1/2" PVC pipe perfectly.
Stainless steel hardware for everything, lag screws to fasten the mount to the stern, bolts to connect the clamps and the rudder fin.

First thing I did was cut the HDPE cutting board to a 12x12 size, and then cut a 45 degree angle from one corner just to give the rudder a shape. I routed all edges to give it a rounded finish, then laid it aside. HDPE can be cut but it takes care to do it. I had to do it in three shallow passes on the miter saw. Then trim off the melted waste that stuck to the edges. While it is moderately fussy to cut with a saw, it routes really easily.

I used the leftover PVC conduit I had from the rod racks for the shaft. I cut two strips of the PVC boards and stacked them together and glued them using PVC conduit solvent adhesive. Then I shaped the resulting piece to slide inside the pipe so it formed a solid piece. I'd like to say this was easy, and it would have been with a 3/4 roundover bit in a router table. What a time to discover I didn't own a bit that size! So I simply shaved the corners down on the table saw, first making a square post into an octagonal piece, and then further shaving each newly formed corner until I had a somewhat rounded shaft. Then I had to spend some time, a whole lot of time actually, sanding down the piece to a rounded shape that would fit inside the pipe. It went in tightly when I was finally finished with it. No glue used, I was afraid it would begin to set up before I got it all the way tapped in. It was so snug that none was needed.

I measured and marked lines a quarter of the way around, and end to end, on the shaft. I laid out where I wanted the rudder fin to be, and then glued a cap on the end where the fin fits. Then slid the coupler on from the other end down to the middle. I previously grinded away the coupler center stop and sanded the insides to allow it to slip over the pipe like this. I did this to reinforce the pipe at the end of the fin mortise. The cap takes care of supporting the mortise at the bottom end of the shaft, but to get a coupler in the middle to be at the top of the fin mortise meant I was going to have to split the coupler or cut the pipe in half and have it be 2 pieced when finished. I didn't want to do either, so I grinded the stop out of the coupler and slid it on the shaft instead. This kept the shaft all one piece, and supports the mortise at each end to prevent splitting of the shaft. To install the coupler I marked its location in the middle, slid it back and applied solvent glue, then slid it into place and wiped off the excess glue quickly. The coupler and end cap were placed so they overlapped the fin location. Once this was all done I marked the rudder fin bolt locations on the sides, and predrilled them using the drill press with the pipe supported in a V grooved board and clamped in place using leftover conduit clamps. Then I rotated the shaft 90 degrees and began using a 1/2" forstner bit on the drill press to hog out a mortise for the rudder fin to fit in. Once this was done I cleaned up the mortise with a chisel, carefully so as not to crack the PVC. Cutting such a long slot in it weakens the pipe, which is why I put a core in it, and used the coupler and end cap to help support it. The bolts going through the rudder fin will also help hold it together.

Then I tapped the rudder fin in place using a rubber mallet. It went in tightly. Afterwards I drilled through it where its predrilled bolt holes were already done in the shaft. Then added the bolts to hold it in.

The stern mount is simply a stack of 1x6 PVC boards drilled to accept the bolts for the clamps, and the lag screws holding it to the stern. The bottom four screws are in an internal wood board, but the top two are not, that small rise on the stern wall is hollow. I found out the hard way by drilling one of the top holes before thinking this might be the case. I ended up just putting some short bolts in the holes with silicone caulk to hold them in for looks. The pipe shaft clamps are one of the best things about this project. They're all aluminum except for their hardware, and I'm not sure it's stainless steel, but it is all metric so not easy to find wingnuts to replace with SS, and the clamp locking bolt is unique to the clamp so I'm stuck with it anyway, SS or not, but I did get my own SS bolts to hold them onto the PVC base. The clamps are very easy to use, very robust and rated at 220 pound duty each, and they grip this pipe tightly. I chiseled a small V shaped notch on the top clamp and scored the shaft to make a corresponding visible line for a way to align the rudder while in the boat without having to look over the side to see the fin underwater. This allows me to raise and twist it while in the boat to stow it flat against the stern so I can back the boat in close to shore in shallow water and save my motor prop while retreiving stuck baits or getting out of the boat to go find a tree to "water". Then I can reset the rudder and continue fishing.

I am looking forward to getting this boat on the water and testing all the new improvements. I'm especially pleased that no wood was used in any of this, everything is totally waterproof, corrosion proof, and UV resistant.

UPDATE - after fishing the spring season I can say the rudder has proven to be a great addition to this boat. Aimless wind drift is no longer a problem. It was worth every penny spent to make it and control of the boat with the motor in the front is great. Also, pushing the boat in reverse with the motor at the front is easy peasy and we back right into shore often to loosen a stuck bait without problem at all. Word of caution though. Keep your fish away from it as you play a big one in close enough to land it. Dad lost a nice one as it wrapped his line around the rudder and broke off. I think it's possible his line was already frayed but there is the chance that the exposed bolt threads were what caused it. Either way, the rudder finished it, which means he had a solid 3 pound fish close enough he could have touched it and it snapped off at the last second, costing him the fish and a $10 Rapala crankbait.

[FLO GROWN]

Awesome job!!! Somebody was paying attention in shop class . Those boats are awesome had one for years.

Sent from my LM-X410(FG) using Tapatalk

[Lipripper]

Thanks for the great in depth report on how you did this project and it looks nice and should work great. 

[Capt. BassinLou]

  ... wow, just wow!!  Great job!! Enjoy the heck out of that creation. 

[The Rooster]

PLANNED FUTURE UPGRADES

Thank you all for the kind words. I posted this so others could find some info on what can be done to these boats, as well as information on the boat itself. I will add to this over time, and modify the existing posts with information that is relevant to the subjects within. I'd appreciate any suggestions for modifications, as well as any advice on how to make this post show in search results so it's easier to discover online.

I'm not even finished with this boat yet either. Future upgrades and accessories could include:

1. New, much nicer seats. I've already replaced the stock plastic bucket seats with these padded low back boat seats, but I think one day I'm going to just lay down a couple hundred and get some much better ones that will make an all day trip a lot less hard on the body.
2. Elevated seat mounts. I want to just take the seats loose from their mounts and add a 2" spacer to raise them just a bit. As is, I feel like they have me scrunched up too much when I sit.
3. A carpeted plywood floor. I'm not sure just how to do this yet, but this I actually have seen this done in others. I would think 1/2" would be the minimum thickness needed to keep from flexing or cracking, but it might add too much weight in the long run. I only want this to smooth out the floor and not have to feel the ridges on the floor when I stand up in my socks to fish.
4. Navigation and night fishing lights. With LED advancements, I feel the options are plentiful. I am considering permanently installed lights but I also feel that I could make something equally as effective using just portable torch lights and save my trolling battery for just the motor.
5. A new, much stronger motor. The 30 pound thrust is all this boat needs. That said, I'd love to double its speed. I'd like to get a 55 pound thrust and shorten its shaft to match the 30 so it rides at the same height and depth.
6. A "kayak flag". This would be to get the attention of passing bass boats and other larger vessels so I don't get run over. It's almost happened a few times.
7. A boat anchor. This might just be a mushroom on a rope just tossed over the side or it could be on a winch to retract it. We will see.
8. A depth finder. This is low on my list because I've had them before and found I just don't look at one much, other than for bottom composition and water depth and temperature. As for finding fish, I just prefer to do it the old fashioned way, for the fun of it. Using one to see the thermocline would be nice, but I'd probably need to take the time to really learn how to use one more than I have so far. I just don't have much interest there.

[The Rooster]

BOAT LAUNCH, RELOAD, and TESTING ALL THE MODIFICATIONS IN ACTION

I took the boat out for a test run today to try all the new upgrades in action. I had my wife take pics from shore as my grand daughter and I played around in the boat. I made a few casts with her on board, but soon I let her out and they both went to play in the creek while I fished a little, mostly just to get a feel for how the rod racks work while fishing and to see how well the rudder works holding me parallel to the bank. It worked quite well, I had no trouble at all. There was very little wind but I did see some, a few moderate gusts. The rudder controlled the boat tracking just fine. The rod racks are really nice in use also. Makes bait rigging and switching rods so much easier.

The boat got quite a few compliments while I was out, too. It must have really attracted some attention. People kept looking at it and several commented on how nice it was. Some pics below of me and my grand daughter enjoying a ride, and more specifically of how I launch and then reload later, putting the trailer in the water.

There are several pics of the launch and reload of the boat. The first pic is of how I fasten the rope to the bow for launch. Simple lashing around the cleats is all it takes. No knot tying. Using 1/4" nylon rope tied to a snap hook, I make sure to keep the spring loaded snap centered, then I wrap each cleat one time each, then snap the rope into the hook. This way the rope ends up centered on the bow so I can pull and direct the boat with it. After this is done, I tie the rope off to a tie down cleat in the truck bed. I just loop the line, feed the loop through the truck bed cleat and use the loop to tie a half hitch around the main line, leaving the loop only partly pulled through so that I can pull it loose again easily. This makes it easy to undo, but not slip before I'm ready to untie it.  I leave the length of rope between this point and the boat with just a little slack, and then I back down the ramp.  The rope will pull tight as the boat begins to slide off in the water.  I put the truck in park, pull the knot loose, and pull the boat over to the side to secure to the dock while I go park the truck.

[Bassinkorea]

That is really cool. Thanks for sharing the photos and little story   

I guess the fish were not biting 

[the_huber_show]

Glad to see it is working out for you!

[mrstangblb]

What awesome work! I just bought a Sportsman last night and can't wait for the storms to stop here in South Carolina so I can get out in it after church tomorrow. Great, great information!

[mrstangblb]

The Rooster, I'm curious - I'm usually the only one using my boat, and even dragging it 3 or 4 feet to my truck on a concrete or asphalt landing, it's scratching the bottom of the pontoon edges on my Sportsman as shown by the attached pictures.

You look like a good engineer - what should I try to do to offset that problem? You can see I put 3 layers of Gorilla tape on there before I went out on my maiden voyage Sunday after church, but it shredded the tape pretty quickly.

I have a little Sundolphin Sportsman 8-1/2 foot long boat.

[The Rooster]

The Rooster, I'm curious - I'm usually the only one using my boat, and even dragging it 3 or 4 feet to my truck on a concrete or asphalt landing, it's scratching the bottom of the pontoon edges on my Sportsman as shown by the attached pictures.

You look like a good engineer - what should I try to do to offset that problem? You can see I put 3 layers of Gorilla tape on there before I went out on my maiden voyage Sunday after church, but it shredded the tape pretty quickly.

I hate getting scratches on my hull too. That't one reason I use a trailer and launch it like I do, it avoids scratching, but some are inevitable due to contact with rocks and shallow sand bars and such while fishing so don't worry too much about it. You might try applying the keel guard material they make for kayaks and see how that works. Also, I'm planning to build a special dolly or roller similar to what is used for kayaks so I can wheel my boat to the water's edge at a certain lake without ramp access (only for kayaks and boats packed in by hand). Using a dolly like this will also prevent scratches since it won't be dragging.

[The Rooster]

RUDDER PERFORMANCE AND STRENGTH

One month after install, we found out the rudder I built is pretty impact resistant. While fishing, I passed over a stump underwater that I failed to notice and the trolling motor hit it. That got my attention and as I looked to see what I had struck we passed on over it and it hit the rudder and jerked the boat to a full stop. There was no damage. Everything just flexed and absorbed the shock. All was well. I have been wondering how it would handle a blow but I also had hoped I wouldn't find out. I guess if it is strong enough for that then that's all I can ask. While I'm talking about the rudder I will also add that it is doing its job well so far. We've seen some wind lately and we don't drift aimlessly in it anymore. Sometimes it will turn us around but it has to be pretty strong to do that and it's not a constant fight like it was before.

UPDATE - It is now October, six months from the making and install of the rudder. The fishing season is all but over, and the rudder has performed magnificently throughout the whole year! We saw several days on the water with strong winds that would have been a real problem without a rudder in the past, but we were able to fish right on, aside from backlashes and wind knots in our line, LOL. The rudder works so well that I have literally forgotten it was back there at times.  The boat does not twist and turn like it once did, and maintaining a parallel position to shore is easily done.  This is for sure the best modification I have made to date, and I consider it to be an essential modification for anyone owning one of these boats who does not otherwise have a rear motor that could act as a rudder.