My Gear Experiences Today..

[HookSet2]

Went out today. Will tell a brief story followed by a few questions.

Decided to take the boat out, but the battery was dead on the running motor so we trolled a few docks in my cove.

Decided to dedicate a road and reel to pitching soft plastics. Threw some Berkeley Pro 30lb brain on it with a 4/0 VMC with a Paloma's knot and a Strike King Rage Menace Bug.

First time using braid and I loved the responsiveness. Except..

One particular cast I flipped my bale accidentally mid cast and it stopped the line abruptly and then entire hook and bait setup broke off midway down the guides. There was no issue with the integrity of the knot. The only thing I can think of is the lack of stretch in the line and the abrupt shock caused it to break.

Also, after a few nice strikes I noticed my rage bug had only one appendage left.

My questions are:

Is there a better way to keep the boat charged besides throwing a 120V 15A charger on for a few hours prior to taking off? The extension cord is a big pain as well. Is there such an animal that charges inside and can be taken out and thrown on? I have a small solar maintainer on it, but it doesn't do much. I guess what I'm asking for is a better alternative for the batteries. Both batteries are new interstate marine deep cycle batteries. I not mixed also that all the accessories (2 fish finders, bilge pump, radio) run off of the main running battery, not the trolling battery. Never had an issue with the trolling battery.

Is Berkeley braid known for this or why did my line break?

The quality of the Rage Bugs. For $6 a pack I would expect better structural integrity, no big deal though. I'm just used to being able to catch multiple fish on one senko.

Anyways, thanks for reading and any input is appreciated.



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[FlatsNBay]

I'm not sure that I understand your charging system but I will explain what I do and maybe it will work for you. I have an on board battery charger that I easily installed myself. I also got one of those round orange extension cord winders along with a long extension chord. It doesn't matter where my boat is (in the water, trailer, garage, or motel). I easily unwind the extension chord and put the batteries on charge no matter where I'm at. The batteries are always on charge when I'm not fishing. I just unplug and go.

As far as baits losing their appendages, it seems like some brands tend to use softer plastic on some baits which unfortunately lead to appendages tearing off. I like using Zoom Z Hogs beaver style baits and they are super soft. I've found that the appendages tear off when setting the hook with braid and missing a fish. The braid has no stretch and the force of a hook set rips the little flappers right off. Pretty frustrating. You'll have to experiment with brands to find one with the durability that you like.

On the braid issue, make sure to use a good quality braid with good reviews..I like Tuf-Line and many on here will swear by original Power Pro. Both are excellent choices and should cut down on any breaking issue.

[Princeton_Man]

I'm pretty much repeating what FlatsNBay has said.

A good onboard charger will charge and maintain your batteries. It will not overcharge or cook them dry. The better chargers are microprocessor controlled. They monitor the batteries and apply charge only when necessary. They also sense the battery types and adjust charge rates based on the type. I leave mine connected 24/7. I recommend the Noco GEN series.

Parts of plastic baits can get pulled off by everything from fish strikes, pulling through cover/rocks, and even hooksets. I think plastics that are fresh out of their original bags hold up better than plastics that have been left out or plastics stored in places that are subject to high temperatures like tackle lockers. I honestly believe my plastic baits have held up better since I started keeping my rig in a garage 3+ years ago.

I don't know anything about Berkley braid. I have had braid snap like that in a cast. Usually do to a line tangle in the reel while casting a heavy bait.

[Captsteve]

wait.. . you supposed to keep your onboarding charger all the time and because I don't do that my plastic baits break  Dang I have a lot to learn. .

But seriously I didn't know your supposed to keep your charger on all the time. I guess especially with my work schedule. So that's why I only got 1 year out of my trolling batteries.

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[HookSet2]

Thanks for the tips, I guess let me clarify..

My dock does not have power on it and it's 100ft from my backdoor by extension cord to my boat. That's why I was thinking about something more portable.


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[Oldfart9999]

A good on board charger for the batteries but you need to check water levels if not maintenance free and keep the connections clean.
As far as the appendages coming off you can use harder plastics but won't get as many bites, it's a tradeoff, I've been known to leave a bag of what I'm using on the deck in the sun, makes them softer giving them more action.
Rodney

[cport]

As far as the appendages coming off you can use harder plastics but won't get as many bites, it's a tradeoff, I've been known to leave a bag of what I'm using on the deck in the sun, makes them softer giving them more action.
Rodney

Great tip, Rodney, you should enter that one.

[SteveTX]

I pretty much would have to say the same thing as Princeton_Man. "I'm pretty much repeating what FlatsNBay has said. " 

A portable charger wont maintain the battery and I would think anything that would hold enough charge to charge you battery would be quite expensive or probably doesn't yet exist. You might try something like the XD Sportsman Emergency Power Supply from Nautic Sport Power Chargers, it claims "Will jump start up to a 8-cylinder engine, multiple times without recharging." but I don't think it would be a way to avoid proper battery maintenance.
I'm thinking its either get the 100ft extension cord out or pull the battery(s) and take it to the house when not in use. Or a last resort is have electric run to where the boat is kept.

For the braid issue I use some Berkley braid I bought to try its called Tracer and I have no issue with it breaking. I tried some  Daiwa J Braid and it was the worst about breaking I cant believe Daiwa would even put their name on it. It cannot take a sudden impact like a a hard stop. Read around on the web and you will find its common with it. Yet the Daiwa Samurai braid I hear is really great. That being said maybe its the particular style Berkley braid that you have that is doing that.

Like others said soft plastics can rip from all sorts of reasons. I use the Pit Boss quite a bit with braid and they rip out on about every other fish. Braid does make it harder on plastics but its just part of the price to play. I find the very durable plastics don't allow for the hook to come through as easily and for the bass to crush as easily. I also like my baits to get warm (like I have a choice in TX) as I like them soft and juicy because I think the fish like them better.

[D.W. Verts]

One note here- 100' or more of extension cable is a LONG way to carry 110 volts, or at least it used to be. Resistance builds up, heat ensues, followed by bad charger performance or worse yet, FIRE. Just sayin'.

Goin' fishin without batteries is a waste, for sure.

[SteveTX]

One note here- 100' or more of extension cable is a LONG way to carry 110 volts, or at least it used to be. Resistance builds up, heat ensues, followed by bad charger performance or worse yet, FIRE. Just sayin'.

Goin' fishin without batteries is a waste, for sure.

The key is a properly rated (designed) cord for proper use. They make all kinds of extension cords for all kinds of conditions. Here is a sample of what I am speaking of. You can Google, appropriate size extension cord to run 100 feet and find a lot of info. There is more to it like the type of casing it is in. This is based on the environment it will be used in like extreme temperatures, oils, etc.

[basss]

Thanks for the tips, I guess let me clarify..

My dock does not have power on it and it's 100ft from my backdoor by extension cord to my boat. That's why I was thinking about something more portable.


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The power will need to come from somewhere, eventually.

[HookSet2]

The power will need to come from somewhere, eventually.

Understandable. I was just wondering if there was a more efficient/larger solar panel, or chargeable box that is produced that could help me out in some way.


Thanks for the information and concerns on the extension cords, but I have an AS in electrical engineering and the cord that I use was built by me specifically for this application.


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[Champriderz]

I have an onboard charger and the first thing I do after unhooking the boat it hook it up but the following morning I unhook it until the afternoon before I go again but if it is more than a week before I go again I put it back for a short time.  The number one reason is I worry about fire and number two, I think it shortens the life of the batteries.  Mine is a four bank Dual  Pro 15 amp.

Also, where I fish panfish are really fond of the little appendages and bite them off  regularly.  If it's not a main part of the bait I just keep fishing.  I use very little braid but a I've seen several baits go flying when I got a backlash and the line suddenly stopped.

[SFL BassHunter]

Went out today. Will tell a brief story followed by a few questions.

Decided to take the boat out, but the battery was dead on the running motor so we trolled a few docks in my cove.

Decided to dedicate a road and reel to pitching soft plastics. Threw some Berkeley Pro 30lb brain on it with a 4/0 VMC with a Paloma's knot and a Strike King Rage Menace Bug.

First time using braid and I loved the responsiveness. Except..

One particular cast I flipped my bale accidentally mid cast and it stopped the line abruptly and then entire hook and bait setup broke off midway down the guides. There was no issue with the integrity of the knot. The only thing I can think of is the lack of stretch in the line and the abrupt shock caused it to break.

Also, after a few nice strikes I noticed my rage bug had only one appendage left.

My questions are:

Is there a better way to keep the boat charged besides throwing a 120V 15A charger on for a few hours prior to taking off? The extension cord is a big pain as well. Is there such an animal that charges inside and can be taken out and thrown on? I have a small solar maintainer on it, but it doesn't do much. I guess what I'm asking for is a better alternative for the batteries. Both batteries are new interstate marine deep cycle batteries. I not mixed also that all the accessories (2 fish finders, bilge pump, radio) run off of the main running battery, not the trolling battery. Never had an issue with the trolling battery.

Is Berkeley braid known for this or why did my line break?

The quality of the Rage Bugs. For $6 a pack I would expect better structural integrity, no big deal though. I'm just used to being able to catch multiple fish on one senko.

Anyways, thanks for reading and any input is appreciated.



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I've used Trilene braid which is now Berkley as well. Worked without issue. I really liked it. There is a possibility, pitching docks that your braid rubbed on a piling and potentially frayed a bit. That would compromise the integrity of your braid.

Senko has no appendages. They last longer because of that. The rage bugs aren't bad but because the appendages are designed to flap and create a lot of movement, they may not be the most durable plastic out there. I think this is just something you'll have to deal with. Or see if you can find something similar. But I think it would be hard to get the kind of action the Rage brand provides with all the kicking appendages.
I can't think of any alternative brands for a Rage Bug off the top of my head.

The bitters baits jitter craw is a good craw, but its not the same as the rage bug. It's more of a craw. Has great action though.

[SteelHorseCowboy]

On braid breakage, I have more questions!
I've mentioned this before, I seem to be the only one here who likes Daiwa J-braid. I've mentioned I've had only ONE break-off on a cast, and I fully claim the blame myself. I knew I needed to retie, the knot looked very battered and frayed, kept telling myself "one more cast" because I was getting a few strikes and botching the hooksets.
I also seem to be one of few, if not the only one, who prefers 8 carrier.

So here's what I'm thinking, and my Q about J-Braid break offs...

I've seen it mentioned that 4 carrier cuts through brush and vegetation better, as if like a saw.
So, assuming the test strength is actually the same between 4 and 8 carrier, y'all reckon maybe 4 carrier J-Braid is cutting through itself rather than simply breaking?

I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out why I'm having different experiences with it, and that's the only difference I can think of.

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[Oldfart9999]

I think most knot failure can traced to the knot being tied wrong, it takes a few more seconds but be sure the knot is tied correctly and lubricate it with salvia as you go.
Rodney

[SteveTX]

On braid breakage, I have more questions!
I've mentioned this before, I seem to be the only one here who likes Daiwa J-braid. I've mentioned I've had only ONE break-off on a cast, and I fully claim the blame myself. I knew I needed to retie, the knot looked very battered and frayed, kept telling myself "one more cast" because I was getting a few strikes and botching the hooksets.
I also seem to be one of few, if not the only one, who prefers 8 carrier.

So here's what I'm thinking, and my Q about J-Braid break offs...

I've seen it mentioned that 4 carrier cuts through brush and vegetation better, as if like a saw.
So, assuming the test strength is actually the same between 4 and 8 carrier, y'all reckon maybe 4 carrier J-Braid is cutting through itself rather than simply breaking?

I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out why I'm having different experiences with it, and that's the only difference I can think of.

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What is your normal rod you are using with the J-Braid?
I'm going to go out on a limb and say its not a heavy or mag heavy for the rod. Most likely is a spinning outfit?
What is your average casting distance?
I'm guessing at this but since your not having any issues with the braid I will say you are not constantly launching hard long casts. Because if you were we all know everyone messes up sooner or later and that short hard stop will pop that J-braid like a Hubba Bubba bubble.   
What is your average bait weight?
If you use say a 5/16 and heavier weight and a decent size plastic on a 4/0 or 5/0 or larger hook with that Heavy Fast or Mag Heavy Fast rod you will no longer like retying and replacing your rig on most of the casts that hang mid cast.
Its not just that you have to retie or that it just cost you $2 in rigging its that it always seems to happen at that time.  You know that time when you just saw the fish move all you need to do is get your bait over him. You cast you line is sailing perfectly then pop... you never cleared the slight line dig from that 4lber from earlier and at 10000 rpms that spool went to 0 on a dime and now you know what the "J" in J-Braid stands for Junk. 

A smooth steady pull on the J-Braid I had was plenty strong but like I found out and was verified reading elsewhere on the web J-Braid cannot take a hard sudden hit. Unfortunately for me I rarely fish spinning stuff but if I did fish light "finesse" stuff on spinning gear it would probably work great for that.

[SteelHorseCowboy]

What is your normal rod you are using with the J-Braid?
I'm going to go out on a limb and say its not a heavy or mag heavy for the rod. Most likely is a spinning outfit?
What is your average casting distance?
I'm guessing at this but since your not having any issues with the braid I will say you are not constantly launching hard long casts. Because if you were we all know everyone messes up sooner or later and that short hard stop will pop that J-braid like a Hubba Bubba bubble.   
What is your average bait weight?
If you use say a 5/16 and heavier weight and a decent size plastic on a 4/0 or 5/0 or larger hook with that Heavy Fast or Mag Heavy Fast rod you will no longer like retying and replacing your rig on most of the casts that hang mid cast.
Its not just that you have to retie or that it just cost you $2 in rigging its that it always seems to happen at that time.  You know that time when you just saw the fish move all you need to do is get your bait over him. You cast you line is sailing perfectly then pop... you never cleared the slight line dig from that 4lber from earlier and at 10000 rpms that spool went to 0 on a dime and now you know what the "J" in J-Braid stands for Junk. 

A smooth steady pull on the J-Braid I had was plenty strong but like I found out and was verified reading elsewhere on the web J-Braid cannot take a hard sudden hit. Unfortunately for me I rarely fish spinning stuff but if I did fish light "finesse" stuff on spinning gear it would probably work great for that.

Sorry to tell ya man, but you're off on all counts.
Yes, I do use it on a spinning rig, two actually, but the rod I use most with it is a Medium Heavy lightning rod with an AG Ambassadeur 5000, and up until recently, a Heavy action ProCat with my parts reel.
Both of those carry/carried 40-50#, the UL spinning reel has 15#, the 4K sized has 20#.

I use both Ambassadeurs for heavier lures, because I use both for catfishing and when I use the 5000 for bass we all know Ambassadeurs just aren't that great for casting light weights. When catfishing, I'll sling a 2oz weight as far as I can out into Bayou Darbonne below the spillway. When bass fishing, I rarely go lighter than 1/4 ounce not counting whatever bait is on it.
And I'm a pro at backlashing. I can backlash anything. I've backlashed so hard the line's been dug in halfway to the spool. I've had lead sinkers fly off their swivels, and once had the line cut through the eye of a 1.5oz all lead weight during a cast. Knot was still intact with a small shard of lead on it, but the weight was gone, the hook tied on below the weight, still there.
Had a wind knot on a spinning rig that yanked the rod tip off. No breakage.

I'm as puzzled by this as anyone else could be. All the reviews I've read don't jive at all with my own experiences. I'm by no means calling anyone a liar, it's far too common of a phenomenon with even some of the most experienced anglers out there, I think I just either have good luck or there's some other variable being overlooked. I'm still wondering if it's because I use 8 carrier instead of 4.

By the way, it does make an excellent line for a lightweight finesse spinning rig. Just don't go too light or you'll get wind knots like crazy.

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[coldfront]

As far as the appendages coming off you can use harder plastics but won't get as many bites, it's a tradeoff

softer baits get more bites.  whole reason behind 'hand pours'.  two reasons baits last a long time:
1.  hard plastic
2.  no bites

sometimes #2 is result of #1.   

[SteveTX]

Sorry to tell ya man, but you're off on all counts.
Yes, I do use it on a spinning rig, two actually, but the rod I use most with it is a Medium Heavy lightning rod with an AG Ambassadeur 5000, and up until recently, a Heavy action ProCat with my parts reel.
Both of those carry/carried 40-50#, the UL spinning reel has 15#, the 4K sized has 20#.

I use both Ambassadeurs for heavier lures, because I use both for catfishing and when I use the 5000 for bass we all know Ambassadeurs just aren't that great for casting light weights. When catfishing, I'll sling a 2oz weight as far as I can out into Bayou Darbonne below the spillway. When bass fishing, I rarely go lighter than 1/4 ounce not counting whatever bait is on it.
And I'm a pro at backlashing. I can backlash anything. I've backlashed so hard the line's been dug in halfway to the spool. I've had lead sinkers fly off their swivels, and once had the line cut through the eye of a 1.5oz all lead weight during a cast. Knot was still intact with a small shard of lead on it, but the weight was gone, the hook tied on below the weight, still there.
Had a wind knot on a spinning rig that yanked the rod tip off. No breakage.

I'm as puzzled by this as anyone else could be. All the reviews I've read don't jive at all with my own experiences. I'm by no means calling anyone a liar, it's far too common of a phenomenon with even some of the most experienced anglers out there, I think I just either have good luck or there's some other variable being overlooked. I'm still wondering if it's because I use 8 carrier instead of 4.

By the way, it does make an excellent line for a lightweight finesse spinning rig. Just don't go too light or you'll get wind knots like crazy.

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You need to be buying lottery tickets man.

IMHO Its not a variable being overlooked unless the line has that poor of quality control from the manufacturer. Because as you stated,"it's far too common of a phenomenon with even some of the most experienced anglers out there".

I'm not claiming to be great or even average but I can say I tried it and it sucked for me. I don't work for anyone in the fishing industry nor do I have a YouTube channel I'm trying to promote. This is just my experience and it was from one spool. That spool of line I tried was junk. My experience was just like this video I found after I had my issues. And this guy loves Daiwa stuff.

Again as you stated a whole lot of others have found the same problem based on posts on the web. I highly doubt that many people are just randomly posting the same exact issue with the one particular brand braid. Maybe they are but still didn't change my actual experience that mirrored what is everywhere on the web. 

If you like it more power to ya I hope every spool you get is as great as the ones you have had. 

[SteelHorseCowboy]

That's what's getting me, it's the fact that it's just freakish. I've used several spools of it too, narrowing down which weights were best for which reels since I was so new to braided line.
Now I've got that worked out. Could've just asked and I'm sure would have gotten good advice, but I worked it out on my own. So I know it's not likely that I've just gotten my hands on exceptionally good batches.

Since I started using it, I tried out a few more. PP Superslick, I didn't like the way I could see the fibers separating as I cinched down the knot and got a ton of backlashes. ProCat hi-viz is a great, cheap, heavy weight tough line for (attempting) to catch monster cats. Casts well, knots well, and it's not hard to resist backlashes when slinging heavy weights. Costs around 5 bucks per spool.

Can't say Daiwa's my favorite though. My line of choice lately is Sufix 842. Not quite as smooth and limp as Daiwa, but it also doesn't get green crap all over my face and hands from bleeding out the dye so fast, knots well, and I can count the backlashes I've had with it on one hand so far.
I'll probably always use Daiwa on my UL spinning gear. It seems just tailor made for it.

There may be another variable. When I tie on, I'm very careful to get as close to a perfect single palomer knot as possible, and I tie a half hitch in the tag end as close to the knot as possible before I trim it. I've never seen anyone mention putting a knot in the tag end before.

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