Comprehensive Guide for Preventing Braid from Snapping on Cast

[Riazuli]

Hey everyone, I had been having a lot of issues with braid since last summer and have come up with the following suggestions for anyone having similar issues related to: braid digging in and snapping on the cast or at least getting random backlash and the lure stopping dead in the air. 

Braid doesn't really stretch like mono or fluorocarbon line does.  If there are any kinks or the braid has dug in to the spool from a previous backlash, lure getting snagged and pulling hard on the line, catching a large fish, etc., it can snap from too much force applied.  This can send your lure flying...but with no line attached.  I probably lost a handful of lures before making all of the proper adjustments, so I feel your pain if this is happening to you.  This can even happen with 30lb+ braid, but the chances are slimmer than with thinner braids of course. Here are the steps to consider:

1.  What kind of braid and what strength are you using?  A lot of people recommend 30lb test and up to prevent digging in due to larger line diameter, but this all really depends on brand and type.  I'm a big fan of original power pro 30lb, as it has been working well for me after switching from 15 lbs on two of my reels.  My other two reels are being outfitted with sufix 832 at 30lb test, which I've heard a lot of good things about in terms of smoothness, strength, and durability.  Some guys are happy with lower test braid, and I've seen a few guys say they use 20lb test comfortably.  I'm perfectly happy with 30 lbs and might even go higher for my froggin/slop setup. 

2.  When you tie on a different lure, are you checking your line for dig in spots/kinks and are you readjusting or at least considering your brakes and tension knob?  If you switch from a worm to a spinner bait and the wind just started to pick up, you just might get a backlash and lose that spinnerbait.  I often start spinnerbaits at brakes set to 2 (especially if it's windy) and tension knob set to a slow fall.  I think it's a good idea to readjust brakes and tension knob after any lure change - I usually keep the brakes on 1 and only set to two if it's windy or if I'm using a high wind drag lure like a spinnerbait/chatterbait/something else wide (and even just every so often without changing lures as your tension knob can get looser over time).

3.  Check your line every so often.  Pull out a few yards after casts every now and then to clear the line from any overrun.  When reeling the extra line back in or loose line in general, it can help to hold the line in order to get a tight and even spooling.  Pay attention to your spool every now and then before casts.  This whole process doesn't have to become a nerve wrecking ordeal either - I've got a system down where it just feels to be a natural routine in my fishing and I can say I feel much better than having to fix backlashes all the time or watching $5-10 (more or less) fly into oblivion with a hopeless jaw drop. 

4.  Increase casting distance and power gradually from when you start and when you put on new lures, and just every so often.  I'll start off with a short and east cast of say 10 yards, and then gradually increase it to 15, 20, 30, etc.  This helps to ensure that you're clearing the line effectively instead of going for a 30+ yard cast right away, only to run into a kink or dig in and lose a lure in the process.  Also, general reel maintenance is key to smoothness and castability. Keep those reels cleaned and lubed as needed!  Also, keep casts smooth and never swing it like you're trying to hit a home run - that's a good way to lose a lure.

5.  An additional tip that is not absolutely necessary, but can help with smoothness, preventing backlash, and overall castability is using a line and lure conditioner the night before fishing.  I use kvd L&L conditioner every now and then and this really helped me while I was getting into the groove of my routine.  Now that I've got things down, I don't feel I need it as much, but is still nice to use every now and then.  Using LLC the night before can be more forgiving if you forget to implement the above tips right away when starting your day.

I hope that helps for anyone running into this issue.  Tight lines and good luck out there! 

[Smallie_Stalker]

Great post Riazuli!!!    There's a lot of very helpful information there. 

[Riazuli]

Great post Riazuli!!!    There's a lot of very helpful information there.

Thank you!  I definitely experienced a lot of frustration from this and was just kind of baffled at first.  I was actually happy to find out that this was not uncommon with braid (rather than just some unfortunate repeating occurrence), and it really improved my overall awareness and technique.

Hopefully this can help others reduce any similar frustrations they might be having!

[analfisherman]

Great info.

I've used a lot of different Line Conditioners over the years.
KVD is good and I have nothing against it!

But you may want to check into a product called Braid Aid from Wilson Frazier-The Professor.

It really is good stuff...and when applied correctly it stays on your line a lot better than most Line Conditioners.

Go to Youtube and  see Wilsons demonstration.


I use it on all my lines ESPECIALLY spinning gear.
But for sure on braid.
When used with fresh Braid straight off the spool you may be amazed on how much unwanted fibers, dye etc is on it already.

It stays on the line longer too.

I still think KVDs is good.....but at least check the Braid Aid out.

Again GREAT TIPS! 

[LgMouthGambler]

Braid has no stretch, and no tensile strength. You have to be very careful how you cast, or you will be in a world of hurt. Nothing you can do will prevent it. Its all in your technique.

<")))>{

[Riazuli]

Great info.

I've used a lot of different Line Conditioners over the years.
KVD is good and I have nothing against it!

But you may want to check into a product called Braid Aid from Wilson Frazier-The Professor.

It really is good stuff...and when applied correctly it stays on your line a lot better than most Line Conditioners.

Go to Youtube and  see Wilsons demonstration.


I use it on all my lines ESPECIALLY spinning gear.
But for sure on braid.
When used with fresh Braid straight off the spool you may be amazed on how much unwanted fibers, dye etc is on it already.

It stays on the line longer too.

I still think KVDs is good.....but at least check the Braid Aid out.

Again GREAT TIPS! 

Thank you! I will definitely look into it - thank you for the suggestion!

[Riazuli]

Braid has no stretch, and no tensile strength. You have to be very careful how you cast, or you will be in a world of hurt. Nothing you can do will prevent it. Its all in your technique.

<")))>{

I think you might have missed the comprehensive guide for preventing it in my original post   I mentioned technique as a key factor but there's definitely more than just your casting technique involved in prevention.

[zippyduck]

Thank you for a very helpful post. I am sure someone will put it to good use.

[Riazuli]

Thank you for a very helpful post. I am sure someone will put it to good use.

Thank you!  Hey, if one person can get over the frustration from this and enjoy fishing more, then it's time well spent

[Oldfart9999]

Good post!
Rodney

[SteelHorseCowboy]

Riazuli, great post. Those are the exact same things I've learned. I too just started using braid this past summer.

Two things I'd add from recent experience:
Retie often. Doesn't take but a moment, look at your knot, and if it's looking kind of sad just cut it off and retie.

Also (this could apply to your second point), when I learned the Palomer knot, one tip I saw was "make sure the lines of the knot do not overlap." I've made sure to follow that rule, and have cut off several lures to retie a fresh knot just to work out that overlap. It just makes sense. An overlap adds a pressure point within the knot itself.

[SFL BassHunter]

I've jumped to 40lb or higher and have had much less line dig. Braid will always dig, even 65lb will dig. One of the things I do as part of my routine, if I catch a big enough fish, or get hung up or something of that nature that causes the digging, what I do is make a short and calculated cast with not much force. Enough to make the stop and then I pull the dig out, reel up and make my next cast.
That is in line with your #3. Instead of sitting there and just pulling line out though the soft cast quickly gets me to the trouble spot.
The risk of losing a lure at that point is non existent, and I might actually catch a fish. lol

[Capt. BassinLou]

I've jumped to 40lb or higher and have had much less line dig. Braid will always dig, even 65lb will dig. One of the things I do as part of my routine, if I catch a big enough fish, or get hung up or something of that nature that causes the digging, what I do is make a short and calculated cast with not much force. Enough to make the stop and then I pull the dig out, reel up and make my next cast.
That is in line with your #3. Instead of sitting there and just pulling line out though the soft cast quickly gets me to the trouble spot.
The risk of losing a lure at that point is non existent, and I might actually catch a fish. lol

I do the same thing Rick.
The minimum test of braid I use is 40lbs. I don't use less than that on Bc's.

[Riazuli]

Riazuli, great post. Those are the exact same things I've learned. I too just started using braid this past summer.

Two things I'd add from recent experience:
Retie often. Doesn't take but a moment, look at your knot, and if it's looking kind of sad just cut it off and retie.

Also (this could apply to your second point), when I learned the Palomer knot, one tip I saw was "make sure the lines of the knot do not overlap." I've made sure to follow that rule, and have cut off several lures to retie a fresh knot just to work out that overlap. It just makes sense. An overlap adds a pressure point within the knot itself.

Thank you - those are great suggestions.  I didn't really consider knots in my post, but those are definitely a place that can be a weak point.  Lubricating knots when tying is also key to prevent the line from weakening when pulling the knot tight.

[Riazuli]

I've jumped to 40lb or higher and have had much less line dig. Braid will always dig, even 65lb will dig. One of the things I do as part of my routine, if I catch a big enough fish, or get hung up or something of that nature that causes the digging, what I do is make a short and calculated cast with not much force. Enough to make the stop and then I pull the dig out, reel up and make my next cast.
That is in line with your #3. Instead of sitting there and just pulling line out though the soft cast quickly gets me to the trouble spot.
The risk of losing a lure at that point is non existent, and I might actually catch a fish. lol

I've heard 40 is a sort of sweet spot for preventing snapping while not going too thick - have you made a solid comparison to 30lb?  If 40 casts as smoothly and as far as 30 (at least not a major difference) I might try 40 out.  I think line smoothness is a key factor here too - the sufix 832 line is really smooth and I see it being more forgiving then original power pro (minus the llc) 

[Lipripper]

I've heard 40 is a sort of sweet spot for preventing snapping while not going too thick - have you made a solid comparison to 30lb?  If 40 casts as smoothly and as far as 30 (at least not a major difference) I might try 40 out.  I think line smoothness is a key factor here too - the sufix 832 line is really smooth and I see it being more forgiving then original power pro (minus the llc)

I have 30 lb Power Pro on my one and only BC which I use for Frogging and haven't had any trouble with it but I'm thinking about going up to 40 this year before our water gets soft and the pads and vegetation gets up.

[Riazuli]

I have 30 lb Power Pro on my one and only BC which I use for Frogging and haven't had any trouble with it but I'm thinking about going up to 40 this year before our water gets soft and the pads and vegetation gets up.

Yeah, I haven't had any issues with 30 yet either, while keeping the things I mentioned in my guide in mind.  I plan to have a dedicated frogging/punching setup that I'll likely go 50+ on as I've pulled some hefty snakehead through thick vegetation - I think I'll feel a lot more confident with higher test (although I was pulling them in just fine on 15lb powerpro). 

[Lipripper]

Yeah, I haven't had any issues with 30 yet either, while keeping the things I mentioned in my guide in mind.  I plan to have a dedicated frogging/punching setup that I'll likely go 50+ on as I've pulled some hefty snakehead through thick vegetation - I think I'll feel a lot more confident with higher test (although I was pulling them in just fine on 15lb powerpro).

Heck if the 15 lb was doing just fine AI would stick with it but then again I would be  if I hooked a HAWG and lost it in that stuff cause I didn't have a heavier line on. 

[Riazuli]

Heck if the 15 lb was doing just fine AI would stick with it but then again I would be  if I hooked a HAWG and lost it in that stuff cause I didn't have a heavier line on. 

Lol, exactly - I actually had one so big that it did snap the 15 lb and I'm pretty sure the line was in good condition as I had been using a wire leader with it...I'll likely end up looking into a heavy rod for this setup as I'm using a MH for it now.

[Lipripper]

Lol, exactly - I actually had one so big that it did snap the 15 lb and I'm pretty sure the line was in good condition as I had been using a wire leader with it...I'll likely end up looking into a heavy rod for this setup as I'm using a MH for it now.

That would be a good idea fishing in all that thick stuff. You need something  to get them out of that stuff in a hurry.

[Riazuli]

That would be a good idea fishing in all that thick stuff. You need something  to get them out of that stuff in a hurry.

You got a deal going on with the bait monkey?? 

[SteelHorseCowboy]

I use spit to lube my knots. Closest thing I have on hand!

As far as 30# vs 40#, I use Daiwa J-braid 8X. I seem to be the only one on earth who likes it. I've noticed no major difference between 30# and 40# and I'm using them both on similar setups. 30# on an Ambassadeur 5000 on a MH Lightning rod, 40# on an Ambassadeur built from parts on a heavy action Pro Cat rod.
I do get further casts on the catfish rig, but I'm also slinging 1-1.5 oz weights with an eight foot rod vs 1/4 oz weights with a 6'6" rod.

I'd imagine there's about as much difference between 30# and 40# power pro as there is between 30# and 40# J-braid: very little.

[Riazuli]

I use spit to lube my knots. Closest thing I have on hand!

As far as 30# vs 40#, I use Daiwa J-braid 8X. I seem to be the only one on earth who likes it. I've noticed no major difference between 30# and 40# and I'm using them both on similar setups. 30# on an Ambassadeur 5000 on a MH Lightning rod, 40# on an Ambassadeur built from parts on a heavy action Pro Cat rod.
I do get further casts on the catfish rig, but I'm also slinging 1-1.5 oz weights with an eight foot rod vs 1/4 oz weights with a 6'6" rod.

I'd imagine there's about as much difference between 30# and 40# power pro as there is between 30# and 40# J-braid: very little.

Good to know!  I'd at least feel a tad more confident with 40 over 30, so if the performance difference is negligible then I'll consider it the next go around.  And yeah, I'm not carrying around llc for knots - spit works just fine for that... I don't see myself spitting all over the spool though lol.

[SFL BassHunter]

I've heard 40 is a sort of sweet spot for preventing snapping while not going too thick - have you made a solid comparison to 30lb?  If 40 casts as smoothly and as far as 30 (at least not a major difference) I might try 40 out.  I think line smoothness is a key factor here too - the sufix 832 line is really smooth and I see it being more forgiving then original power pro (minus the llc)

In all honesty I have found no negatives to making the switch from 30 to 40.
Most of my reels have 50 or 65. One has 40.

I can't say I have noticed much difference between 30 and 50 either.

Way I see it, if I am using braid, it's because I am fishing dirty water, OR clear water with enough vegetation to hide my line.
If I decide I need to fish for finicky fish I then switch to mono, I never really have a need for 30lb or less braid.

I use PP Original and have had no issues. I have had issues with PP MaxQuatro with break offs in the 40lb and even the 65lb.

[Riazuli]

In all honesty I have found no negatives to making the switch from 30 to 40.
Most of my reels have 50 or 65. One has 40.

I can't say I have noticed much difference between 30 and 50 either.

Way I see it, if I am using braid, it's because I am fishing dirty water, OR clear water with enough vegetation to hide my line.
If I decide I need to fish for finicky fish I then switch to mono, I never really have a need for 30lb or less braid.

I use PP Original and have had no issues. I have had issues with PP MaxQuatro with break offs in the 40lb and even the 65lb.

Good to know!  I'll be testing heavier braids once things warm up and will report back with my findings.