When Braid Digs In

Started by Bud Kennedy, January 15, 2017, 11:39:00 AM

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flowerjohn

On the water a quick way to reset your line back to proper tension is to let all of your line out the back of the boat while at trolling speed. Just line. No lure.  Reel it back into your spool and you are back to straight line with no twists and at proper tension. Takes a few minutes to do but I have found it to be a good way to get everything back to right.


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Oldfart9999

Quote from: Wizard on January 17, 2017, 09:03:44 AM
When I use braid, I peel off the length of the furthest cast I will make. At that point I put a piece of tape across the line. The line will not be able to dig in past this point. I mostly do this for pitching and flipping. My most powerful hook sets are with these techniques and have the greatest risk of braid digging in on the reel
Good idea! :-* ~c~
Quote from: flowerjohn on January 17, 2017, 09:07:27 AM
On the water a quick way to reset your line back to proper tension is to let all of your line out the back of the boat while at trolling speed. Just line. No lure.  Reel it back into your spool and you are back to straight line with no twists and at proper tension. Takes a few minutes to do but I have found it to be a good way to get everything back to right.


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I do this with flouro and mono  on mt spinning outfits. Works good, normally doing it every other trip works also. If you're doing a tournament the day before then setting it aside works well.
Rodney
Old Fishermen never die, their rods just go limp.

Bud Kennedy

#27
I am ready to spool up some Power Pro 30#.  The line conditioner from the professor arrived today so I am ready to do this thing.  Thanks to input from Lee I do understand that I have been whipping my casts with a snap of the wrist.  I plan on stopping the wrist action and anxious to give this a try.  Feeling confident that the source of my problems have been identified and an action plan is in place to end the frustrations.


SFL BassHunter

Quote from: flowerjohn on January 17, 2017, 09:07:27 AM
On the water a quick way to reset your line back to proper tension is to let all of your line out the back of the boat while at trolling speed. Just line. No lure.  Reel it back into your spool and you are back to straight line with no twists and at proper tension. Takes a few minutes to do but I have found it to be a good way to get everything back to right.


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Why no lure? That is how I catch the majority of my fish! Picking out backlashes lol.  ~roflmao



Quote from: Bud Kennedy on January 19, 2017, 01:06:48 PM
I am ready to spool up some Power Pro 30#.  The line conditioner from the professor arrived today so I am ready to do this thing.  Thanks to input from Lee I do understand that I have been whipping my casts with a snap of the wrist.  I plan on stopping the wrist action and anxious to give this a try.  Feeling confident that the source of my problems have been identified and an action plan is in place to end the frustrations.
I whip the rod with my wrists, elbow, shoulder and put my body into every cast! I'm like a sasquatch casting.

I am spooling with 40lb instead of 30. Helps a bit with the digging.
PB: 6lbs 5oz / 24.25 inches.
Rods/Reels Dobyns, 13 Fishing, Cabelas Arachnid, Daiwa Tatula CT, Tatula SVTW, Tatula Tactical, Tatula Type R
Florida Bass Fishing

Bud Kennedy

Spooled up some new power pro 30#  Used the braid aid as instructed and mounted the reel on my newest LSCR using a Lews SS1SH.  Took it to the yard for some quick casts just to see how everything performs.  First let me say with the treated braid the casts were very smooth and the sound of the line going through the micro guides was noticeably quieter.  The casts we longer and I did not experience any backlash or air looping and no digging into the reel.  I took your recommendations and spooled the braid very tightly.  I had only tied on a senko to use as the casting bait with a very very small tungsten weight.  I only performed a dozen or so casts and my initial response indicates that good results are expected.  I also took care to be sure I did not whip the cast with my wrists and just let the rod do its job.  Hopefully this is the start of a new love affair.   Thanks to all who responded to my original post, it really helps.

Oldfart9999

Quote from: rickdelprado on January 19, 2017, 01:13:25 PM
Why no lure? That is how I catch the majority of my fish! Picking out backlashes lol.  ~roflmao
With a lure on the twist doesn't come out, with no lure it "untwists" doesn't take long, 1/4 mile at most is all you need. Run it through a rag as you retrieve, helps clean the line.
Rodney
Old Fishermen never die, their rods just go limp.

NHBull

Most of the guys I fish with use braid to flourocarbon leader with 10-15 lb PP.
In 3 yrs, I have never witnessed this problem and never heard about it till reading on the boards.
I have to believe that some of this is user error

SFL BassHunter

Quote from: NHBull on February 12, 2017, 06:35:02 AM
Most of the guys I fish with use braid to flourocarbon leader with 10-15 lb PP.
In 3 yrs, I have never witnessed this problem and never heard about it till reading on the boards.
I have to believe that some of this is user error
This occurs mostly when you get hung up or you fight a fish and your drag is set tighter than it should.

You get hung up and pull on the line to break free and the line digs into itself from the force until the line snaps. Or when the fish is pulling but can't get line out.

So technically yes it can be attributed to user error. But many times there is no way around it. So after you can make a short cast and let line out to get the line that's dig in out you can retrieve and make your normal cast.


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PB: 6lbs 5oz / 24.25 inches.
Rods/Reels Dobyns, 13 Fishing, Cabelas Arachnid, Daiwa Tatula CT, Tatula SVTW, Tatula Tactical, Tatula Type R
Florida Bass Fishing

analfisherman

Quote from: Oldfart9999 on January 26, 2017, 04:50:02 AM
With a lure on the twist doesn't come out, with no lure it "untwists" doesn't take long, 1/4 mile at most is all you need.
Rodney

For shorebusters.
You can get similar results doing it through grass 3" high or better on shore, the longer the better.
With 'any' line type.
Now you'll need to have a field or space long enough to be able to walk an equal distance of your average cast or more.

Take your lure and 'snag it' to a longer weed, twig or what ever.
(Seeing I fight line twist A LOT more with spinning gear I'll concentrate on spinning reels.)

Open the bail up and let the line come off 'through your first two fingers. (you basically open reel bail and turn around leaving rod tip pointed at lure, take and hold the reel by the spool letting it run through your fingers, helps avoid the line unspooling to fast creating wind knots and such)

Then start walking and letting line out as you walk with very little tension with your fingers.
Walk the distance of your average cast...or longer and set the rod down after closing the bail.
Walk back to where you hooked the lure/hook on and cut off the lure/hook.

Walk back to reel and start reeling in line with the line running through your thumb and index finger to keep some tension on the line to allow proper spool/line laying. Basically the same as you do when spooling fresh line on a reel.
Now you want to do this with the rod tip down as close to the top of the grass as you can...even in the grass top will work.

The line running through the grass 'untwists' the line just like it does dragging behind a boat. 
I do this in my back field ALL THE TIME, before or after an outing.
AND YES, YOU'LL OFTEN SEE ME DOING IT IN THE PARK if I'm throwing a lure that tends to twist the line and I'm throwing it a lot.........but be prepared to ANSWER A LOT of questions from anglers and folks just sitting in the park.  ;) lo

I should state, I use line conditioner (Professors/KVD) after/before every outing on ALL my lines.

SHOREBUSTING RULES!  ~roflmao ~roflmao
"Fishing isn't life or death... it's more important than that."