1998 Mercury 200 EFI Mechanical Damage Rebuild

[Oldfart9999]

Rick, if it helps, it looks like blk is a common ground, the other 2 wires go into #4 which is a warning module, none go under the flywheel. # 12 is a rotational sensor. That's what I saw when I traced it out.
Does it fit in a pocket behind the oil pump?
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Rick, if it helps, it looks like blk is a common ground, the other 2 wires go into #4 which is a warning module, none go under the flywheel. # 12 is a rotational sensor. That's what I saw when I traced it out.
Does it fit in a pocket behind the oil pump?
Rodney

Yep , I found it earlier finally !! Lol
Thank you for researching it though !!!
I assume it checks to see if the oil pump is turning (rotating). It is Hooked to the alarm module so make sense I guess.
Got the ECM bolted on and wired up , fuel pump bolted on and hoses connected.
Having trouble with the 2 control cables and the lever that they connect to where it bolts to the block. Gonna call it a night and study on it some more lol. This definitely ain't no small block Chevy !!!

[hughesjasonk]

Looking good

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[Trap2016]

Sometimes it is a good thing to walk away from it and then come back with some fresh eyes.

[Bigwrench]

Sometimes it is a good thing to walk away from it and then come back with some fresh eyes.

Yeah I'm hoping some time away from it today will help , probably won't get back on it now till tomorrow night due to baseball.

[Princeton_Man]

Yeah I'm hoping some time away from it today will help , probably won't get back on it now till tomorrow night due to baseball.

I'd be pulling my hair out, cussing swearing, and looking to hand it off to you. 

I think it's pretty awesome the way you handle the setbacks. 

[Lee Smith]

Hell, I knew where that went the whole time     

Keep rollin' brother!  You got this! 

[Bigwrench]

Hell, I knew where that went the whole time     

Keep rollin' brother!  You got this! 

Lol ! Now ya tell me !

[Oldfart9999]

Yep , I found it earlier finally !! Lol
Thank you for researching it though !!!
I assume it checks to see if the oil pump is turning (rotating). It is Hooked to the alarm module so make sense I guess.
Got the ECM bolted on and wired up , fuel pump bolted on and hoses connected.
Having trouble with the 2 control cables and the lever that they connect to where it bolts to the block. Gonna call it a night and study on it some more lol. This definitely ain't no small block Chevy !!!

From what I could read on line it senses when there is not enough oil flowing. Good thing to have. Yeah, a small block chevy with a QJ tuned right hooked to a turbo 350 and 355 gears with posy in a 69 Camaro, nice simple, quick, wish I still had it.
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Ok so back on it tonight. Folks I'm down to very little having this thing completely back together.
The hold up is where the spark advance lever #1 and the throttle control lever #16 bolt to the block.


I started the center pivot bolt #17 in by hand and when I went to connect my 2 control cables , I started tightening the bolt down and this plastic bushing #18 started cracking and coming apart.

It's a pretty simple design

These two halves mate together with the spring and keep tension on the arms

Like this

Before adjusting them to the correct location the two halves meet perfect

Once I rotate them to the correct location with the spring tension on them

they spread apart like this

As you can see in the photo here the stop screw isn't hitting where it normally was ( missing paint )

So anyways that's the holdup
Anyone installed these levers on their block before ?
EDIT:
     Lol I think I mighta answered my own question

Using the flat blade of a screwdriver I pushed on that exposed spring coil and it popped inside the case and the two halves came together !!!
So ...... Dont try to bolt it up without those two halves properly mated lol

[jprism]

Darn plastic parts are light weight but with age become brittle. A little like us I guess


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[Bigwrench]

This is where I pushed with a screwdriver pushing the coil inside the two halves so it would mate up properly !

[Bigwrench]

Ok back to business
Connect your control cables

Insert the spring in the rear of the arm for the retainer plate

Hard to see but there is a little spring in there #24 in the above diagram.
The rear hole is also recessed in the shape of the retaining nut #25 and its a little tricky to get in with big fingers , push it in against the spring and insert your bolt #23 and plate #22 over the cable and screw it in tight

[Bigwrench]

Gonna roll through the rest of this pretty quick , touching on some key things as I go.

Started routing my fuel lines to the pump  and installed all new wire ties where I needed them
One trick with wire ties is I like to use a small set of side cutters and after pulling it tight

I grab the end of the strap right up against the locking mechanism

and twist my cutters 90 degrees away from the lock .

You can hear a few clicks and watch the tie strap squeeze the hose , I then grab the rubber hose and make sure it won't rotate . Clip the end off

And that's it.
In case you have some of these squeeze type clamps shown here

I like to use a very small straight pick

and slide it in between the squeezed section

slightly spreading it apart until you can slide the rubber hose and all off

The key is the locking teeth you can see on the side there (3 of them ) need to stay engaged in those slots. Once your done working , you can slide it back on again then squeeze it together tight with a pair of side cutters

There is a "Band Clamp" pliers type tool for this but I don't have it here at home so this is a quick improvisation you can do at home.
If you squeeze too tight or your side cutters are brand new and very sharp you could cut through the clamp and render it useless.  You can watch it squeeze together and again try to turn it with your fingers. If it won't turn your tight. 
Sometimes you just can't save them and have to revert back to old faithful

  All fuel lines are routed and tight.

[Bigwrench]

Poppet valve time


  Cleaned up my Poppet Valve and inspected the diaphragm for any rips or tears.

None found
Inspected my spring and made sure it was clean and moved freely.
so I glued my first gasket to the cover using 3m adhesive

Glued my second gasket to the divider plate

and installed it to the block.



Installed all new wire ties and routed the hose to the location at the top of the block. And connected the speedometer tube to the T at the same location.
All water lines are now run !

[Bigwrench]

One quick change I made on the fly .
There is a 20 amp AGC "All Glass" inline fuse that normally looks like this

that is used for the trim solenoids.

When I unplugged it the glass disintegrated and the two metal caps stayed in the rubber cap ends .

I decided to eliminate that fuse completely and change it to a waterproof ATC blade fuse (Which I carry several of on the boat at all times)
I first cut out the old fuse holder and swapped it with this one

using heat shrink/solder type butt connectors I installed it in place


Installed a 20amp ATC fuse

closed it up

and wire tied it in the original location.
I also took this time to go over all wiring runs to make sure they were all tied securely and neatly around the entire motor.
Folks I am down to these few wires at the bottom of this photo and thankfully I know where they all go LOL (Trim Switch on engine cover) 


Here's the remaining list ....

water pump , lower unit and oil tank on the engine ! Bleed oil lines/pump and fuel lines/pump and fill one tank with 50:1 for my break in procedure ! Connect the battery and see if it will do something productive lol.

I am not going to install the lower engine cowling until I know this thing will run but otherwise that's it and we may see some "good" smoke real soon on the Hero4

[hughesjasonk]

the "crimp" rings that you show for the fuel line... I started using the PEX crimp rings from lowes with their tool. it works pretty well.

[Bud Kennedy]

This has been a spectacular thread.  It won't be long now.

RELEASE THE KRAKEN

[Lee Smith]

This has been a spectacular thread.  It won't be long now.

RELEASE THE KRAKEN

What Bud is trying to say nicely is:

CRANK THE DAMN THING ALREADY!

[Bigwrench]

the "crimp" rings that you show for the fuel line... I started using the PEX crimp rings from lowes with their tool. it works pretty well.

Never thought about those , we have used them at our camper for the water lines. Great idea.

[hughesjasonk]

Never thought about those , we have used them at our camper for the water lines. Great idea.

Yeah it's the best thing that i came up with when I installed a new gas tank in my boat. I used them on my souped up car too when nothing else was working. The tool is 30-50 bux though. But once you have it you have it

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[Bigwrench]

What Bud is trying to say nicely is:

CRANK THE DAMN THING ALREADY!

LOL You Come on up and help me we can get it done quicker !

[Lee Smith]

LOL You Come on up and help me we can get it done quicker !

I'll put Randy on a plane this morning   

[Lipripper]

Almost there 

[Princeton_Man]

Yeah it's the best thing that i came up with when I installed a new gas tank in my boat. I used them on my souped up car too when nothing else was working. The tool is 30-50 bux though. But once you have it you have it

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Rick, I have the Pex tools buddy. The fancy crimper and the removal tool. I can run them down tomorrow evening if you want them.