1998 Mercury 200 EFI Mechanical Damage Rebuild

[Bud Kennedy]

I look forward to these updates.  I am so impressed with Rick's knowledge and craftsmanship.  This has got to be the best thread I have ever seen on a bass oriented website.  Really makes you appreciate what it takes to re build a motor and makes you wish that your mechanic had this level of competence.  Great Job Rick.

[Bigwrench]

I look forward to these updates.  I am so impressed with Rick's knowledge and craftsmanship.  This has got to be the best thread I have ever seen on a bass oriented website.  Really makes you appreciate what it takes to re build a motor and makes you wish that your mechanic had this level of competence.  Great Job Rick.

I am grateful for your kind words brother , it takes a little longer to post it step by step but if I don't do it while it's fresh in my mind I might not be as detailed . Hope you guys don't mind that I go into so much detail ?

[Bud Kennedy]

The details is what makes this so great.  Don't change the way you are posting.

[Bigwrench]

Crankshaft assembly and installation continued :
Grayson and I both worked on getting the crank clean as a whistle after he got back from baseball.

after all that assembly to remove any traces of dust or left over debris using CRC Brakleen we sprayed the surfaces off real good


and then Grayson went over it with an air wand to dry it completely.

We then laid down a clean fender cover to install the sealing rings and prepare for installation into the engine block.

In several of my photos you will see the shop manual open , always read through and follow the instructions page by page. No matter how good you are mistakes (end cap) can happen. Use a highlighter or write notes as you read through it to remind yourself of critical steps.
Time to Install the crankshaft sealing rings , we needed a way to rotate the crank as we worked on it so Grayson and I came up with this setup . 2 small jack stands and a couple micro fiber rags to protect the bearing surfaces.

Slightly spread the sealing ring until it slides over the crank journal

And stick one end in the groove and slowly walk it around until it falls in place



Grayson installed 6 of the 7 !!

Torrington bearing installation
The 2 main center bearings will come assembled again keep everything together for that particular bearing

There are 3 holes in each of the bearing races

One of these holes is bigger than the other 2 and is used to lock the race into the block assembly this larger hole MUST face the driveshaft end of the crankshaft (lower unit) which is the end we pressed the bearing onto (away from the flywheel end)
Again using our high temp lubricant we coat the bearing halves and install them on the crank journal


Spread it over the surface of the bearings

Press it firmly onto the throw

Do the same with the other half

Coat the race with the larger hole and install it on the bearing half with the larger hole towards the pressed on bearing

Do the same with the other half , making sure the cold broke ends correctly match each other
On these there is a notch on one side , with the larger hole towards the bottom the notch goes towards the top (flywheel end)

Once everything is installed properly on the crank journal , while holding the entire assembly together , place the bearing retaining ring ends in the center groove and slowly push working the ring over the race halves

and it will spread apart and pop into place.  Make sure the retaining ring bridges the separating lines of the bearing race (crack).
Once installed In the groove you can hold the races and rotate the retaining ring with the pocket screwdriver so the open ends aren't near the race crack.

In the above photo the "crack" is 1 1/4" below the oiling hole and the retaining ring ends are on the top.
Fully installed in this photo you can see the larger hole to left and notch in races to right

As well as continuous retaining ring over cracked area.
Finally install the top bearing onto its surface with lube and it's ready to set in the block

Block upside down ready for crank install
Notice the line up dowels at the two center bearing cutouts , these are for the larger hole in the race to set onto

Lube up all sealing ring surfaces with 2 stroke oil

I like to just have a container on hand with some oil in it I can dip my fingers in to spread oil when and where needed I used a clean mixing cup

Lube the corresponding surfaces on the block

and gently set the crank down onto the block making sure all of the sealing ring gaps are towards the top and rotating the 2 center main bearing races until the dowels line up with the larger holes
This was a tricky process but be patient and everything will settle in place. The sealing rings ends will squeeze together as it lowers into place . Rotate the race of the two bearings and gently push down and you will feel the larger dowel hole line up and it will fall down into place.
With the crank sitting down in the block one of the oiling holes will be real close to the block on the side your on

Ring end gaps

Gonna cover the motor and call it a night since we are at a good stopping point.
Stay tuned !!

[jprism]

I sit around all day anticipating every installment. Thanks Rick for taking the time to share your rebuild.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cojab]

I sit around all day anticipating every installment. Thanks Rick for taking the time to share your rebuild.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

x's 2. I really enjoy seeing the updates to this thread.

[Bigwrench]

I sit around all day anticipating every installment. Thanks Rick for taking the time to share your rebuild.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your very welcome brother ! Hope it helps many more in the future as well.

[hughesjasonk]

your engine is coming along nicely. i was/am a mechanic as well and you have done something i dont think i would of had the gumption to do

I'm sure budget is what drove this endeavor. I know that is why I get into some of the projects that I do.

[Oldfart9999]

No sir it is just a standard press on type bearing although I have used a little "liquid wrench" on some of those in the past , especially when I worked on Kenworth and Mack Trucks.

The snowmobile engines I worked on had all ball bearings, it was possible to replace all of them but you had to be able to index the crank for reassembly, we didn't have the equipment. To change the bearings on the ends we soaked the bearings in very hot oil and the crank in ice, dry ic e when we could get it. The bearings went on easily, and somebody burned their fingers picking up the bearings without gloves on. This a fun thread, at least for us. Brings back some memories although the engines I worked on weren't as complicated, mixed feelinbgs, I do and don't miss it. Good work you and your son are doing Rick!!
Rodney

[Lipripper]

Looking good Rick and you have a great helper.

[Bigwrench]

Ok Brothers & Sisters  its that time again !!
My little man helper took off to the lake with Paw Paw , The boss is about 45 minutes away with our oldest daughter at her High School (Teacher) putting the final touches on their Prom , so I'm all alone tonight ! I'm not sure which way is best to post these since there's a lot of comments in between the actual build posts I make (adding another one now lol)  but I'm just gonna start a new post each time I get to work on the build , it would be a PITA to try and post it all with 25-30 photos each time I start posting so I may go back later on and clean it all up depending on what Mike and Laurie think will be best for the site and new members popping in looking for help.
Anyways stay tuned gonna get some more coffee and start posting !

[Bigwrench]

We left off last night with the crank sitting in place with the dowel pins lined up properly in the center main bearing dowel holes and the crank sealing ring gaps all pointing up.

  At this point we need to install new end cap seals, O Rings and install those onto the crank and block assembly before installing the Pistons.

    Let's start with the lower end cap
 
This cap actually has 2 seals installed on top of each other we need to remove those first, to do that we need a hard flat surface to work on , using that Junk Cylinder head I am now the proud owner of

I laid the end cap on top of the recessed area and using a small punch I knocked both seals out at the same time.


They are both identical

and also they are the same seal used in the upper cap (so your kit will have 3 total)

We need to completely clean the lower end cap and especially the surface around the area where the metal portion of the seal sits . The factory uses Red Loctite 271 and there will be some residue left , we want to remove all that using the good old trusty 3M gray pad.

Once you have the area clean and smooth spray it all with a brake cleaner and then wipe with a rag.
Lightly coat the outside metal surface of the seal with red loctite

And then smooth it out to a thin coating around the entire outside surface of the seal with your finger  , do not get it on the rubber seal portion


  Here's a trick I learned a long time ago working on Big Truck axles and it has served me well.

On the inside of most seals there is a very small, very fragile spring assembly that helps keep the rubber lip of the seal in contact with the surface it rides on . During the process of driving a seal in this spring can very easily become dislodged and the seal pretty much becomes useless at that point and IF you realize it , you would most likely destroy the seal getting it back out to try and fix the issue and the you'd be short a seal. If you don't realize it you will have a leak later on down the line .
     Here's the tip -
Using a heavy grease (same PTFE used on bearings) fill the void between the lip and the metal portion of the seal

using your finger push the grease down into the seal and smooth it out all the way around . This helps hold the spring in place , properly prelubes the seal lip and practically guarantees a uneventful seal install.
Using the the junk cylinder head again as a "table" and a cloth over the head surface to protect the end cap , flip the end cap over so it sits down in the combustion chamber area

we will use a 36mm axle socket to drive the two seals in .... One at a time and both facing the same direction.

Once the seal is fully seated , wipe the area clean

Perform the same process with the second seal and install it directly on top of the first seal until it's fully seated as well. 
It will be flush with the surface of the end cap

We now have a double seal on the lower crankshaft area.

Install a new O Ring into the groove

lubricate the surface of the O Ring , seal surface of the crank and insert it it onto the crank shaft slowly while rotating it a little bit until it is seated against the block. Install 2 of the 4 bolts about halfway with your fingers , do not tighten them at this time.


The procedure is exactly the same for the top cap , since I had to order a refurbished used one it came with new seal and O Ring already. This is also the time to install your top crankshaft main bearing if you haven't already. Just lube it up and insert it into the  race that is installed in the top cap.


Be careful installing these two caps as they are pretty fragile. Take your time and just ease it on and lightly tap it with a screwdriver handle to seat it past the O Ring surface.  Once it is flush rotate it until you can also start the two bolts half way, do not tighten at this time.

These two end caps will now hold our crankshaft in place so we can rotate the block and start punching Pistons !!!

Now this is one of my favorite parts of engine rebuilding (next to hearing it run smoothly the first time of course) , it means we are getting very close to a complete block assembly , that being said , this is also one of the most critical procedures on any rebuild IMO and some little mistakes here can cause catastrophe down the road -the little details are very important !


  Piston Ring End Gap measurement -

Flip (roll) the block over very GENTLY on your work table so the piston holes are now facing up. 


Remember the lower half has not been installed and the sealing rings will be in contact with the surface the block is sitting on.

     Because I am not using the recommended engine stand there is some Muscle involved from here on out so if you have a bad back , get help.
  The piston ring end gap specification is .018"-.025" . This measurement is critical to ensure good contact and sealing between the rings and the cylinder walls.  (Great Compression = Great Combustion)
Place one of the rings inside the cylinder block

Flipping the piston you will be using in that hole over, insert the piston into the cylinder

holding the rod assembly and ease it down into the cylinder 1/2"-1" max.

You just squared up the ring in the cylinder and now using a feeler gage we will measure how far apart the end gaps are.

Starting with a .024" (.001" under max spec)

We are looking for a good "drag"' of the feeler gage which is also being held against the cylinder wall. .024" will not fit on this one so I then tried a .018" (bottom of spec) it did fit loosely so I ended up with a .021" end gap which is perfect. 

If it was on either end of the spectrum I would try a different ring until I got between those low and high numbers. Check both rings and your essentially matching up your ring set to each cylinder , giving you the best possible compression with your available parts. 

Each cylinder should be checked this way . You could say .024" won't fit but .018" does , your between specs and your done. I was just trying to show you can play around and get as close as possible if you prefer but not absolutely necessary .

NOW Let's punch some Pistons !!

[cojab]

Great tip on packing the seals with grease to hold the spring in.
I just replaced  the axles in my Jeep and had to pull them three times because that spring kept coming off resulting in a leak.
I wish I would have known this 6 months ago. It definitely would have saved me a bunch of time and headaches.

[Bigwrench]

Lol I just typed out a bunch of stuff on piston punching and uploaded 11 photos starting at 11:26 .... It's now 12:20 and when I hit send it disappeared LOL !!! Gonna get my butt in the bed (4 hours sleep last night) I'm beat. Will start back  tomorrow on the piston punching process , but all Pistons are now installed and the connecting rods are torqued to spec . Need to run to the shop in the morning to grab a special sealant that I am out of at home to install the lower case half ! Thanks for following along everyone , we are getting real close to making smoke ...... And hopefully horsepower lol.

[Bigwrench]

Great tip on packing the seals with grease to hold the spring in.
I just replaced  the axles in my Jeep and had to pull them three times because that spring kept coming off resulting in a leak.
I wish I would have known this 6 months ago. It definitely would have saved me a bunch of time and headaches.

Trust me I know your pain , hopefully this will save you any trouble in the future with seal installations . I use this process on every seal I install that has a lip spring , doesn't matter if it is a axle seal, crank seal or a shift shaft seal on an automatic transmission.

[Oldfart9999]

This may be the best thread on the board Rick, at least for now. It's always good to watch an artist at work!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Ok piston installation -
With the cylinders you are installing the Pistons in straight up and vertical we want to make sure the connecting rod journal is at TDC of the cylinder

To achieve this we need to be able to rotate the crankshaft during the process and at the same time protect the threads on the crankshaft
I installed a slightly larger nut onto the crank threads

Then a large flat washer

And finally the flywheel retaining nut.

Tighten it finger tight and give it a sharp tap with your hand on a wrench or ratchet to give it a little extra in case you have to rotate backwards (so the nut doesn't come off)
  Now is the time to double check everything on your piston !
  Check to make sure your piston pin retaining rings are properly installed in the groove and positioned so the openings aren't in the access slot ON BOTH SIDES !
  Nothing will break your heart more than torquing your head bolts and finding 4 new (4 cylinder) retaining clips laying on your bench 
To install the Pistons we will be using 2 tools , 1 better than the other , so I can demonstrate how easy this process can be using the correct tool.

The one on the right is a more common type that has different bands that can be changed out depending on what your bore size is ... It will also do all 6 Pistons on this engine even though I have one piston that is .020" oversize.
The one on the left is a cone type installation tool that IMO is probably the best thing since sliced bread and the invention of the gear wrench! It will not work with the .020" piston. 
Coincidentally enough Chevrolet Equinox V6 engines have the same bore size as my Mercury , so I took the liberty of ordering this piston sleeve (cone) from Summit Racing to ensure I had all the tools I need while working on those vehicles at at the shop  $20-$40 each and more than worth the money if your installing Pistons.
  The cone is slightly larger and tapered down to the bore size at the bottom

They are size specific and should be marked on the outside

  Using 2 stroke oil we will ensure the cylinder , cone (or band depending on method used) and the piston and rings are fully lubricated before installation . Just use your hand and spread it liberally.

These Pistons have a locating pin in the ring grooves, be sure these pins are in between the end gaps .


Install the piston into the cone using your fingers rotate it and push it down into the sleeve

Make sure your arrow marks or the word UP are facing the flywheel end . Your connecting rod should be 90 degrees and the upper conn rod bearing half should be held in place with the PTFE grease . Set the assembly into the cylinder

I will also note that you can use conn rod alignment rods which are long threaded plastic or aluminum rods that screw into the bottom of the conn rod where your cap bolts thread in to help guide your conn rod properly over the crank journal .
  As long as your crank is at BDC and the cylinder head surface of the block is level , Gravity will hold the conn rod straight up and down in the bore . Whichever way works for you the best is what I always say.

Gently rotate and push with your fingers or thumbs until the piston is flush or Top Dead Center (TDC) .

Remove the cone

Continue pushing the piston down into the cylinder with your fingers . As long as your conn rod is 90 degrees in the block it should go all the way to BDC and seat against the crank journal . You may have to rotate it slightly to clear the relief cuts at the bottom of the cylinder

Once the bearing is seated against the journal roll the block until you can install the conn rod cap and other bearing half.
Tighten your two 5/16" 12 point conn rod cap bolts finger tight , also make sure your cap is properly oriented to the rod in its original location and on the correct rod . (Cold cut assembly)
We will cover this more later but once it's finger tight move onto the next piston on that same side. I recommend doing one bank at a time . 2,4 & 6 (port side in this case) .

We will now install the #6 piston which is .020" oversized using the band method 
Using this method you have to "Tap" the piston in using a rubber piston hammer

or a hammer handle (when I used this method I would wrap the end of the hammer handle with a rag and tape it with black tape to protect the piston surface) 
You can use a plastic screwdriver handle , rubber hammer handle also

On the side of the band you have markings that indicate which way to install the sleeve during assembly.
   Your tool should have several bands for different piston sizes


The down or bottom in this case will be against the engine block during installation

I like to flip my piston upside down on a flat surface and place the band (with bottom towards the connecting rod) over the assembly

Insert the tips of the pliers into the holes on the band and slowly squeeze your band .
It is critical that while squeezing the band that the rings are properly lined up in relation to the small pin in the piston groove !!

  Using the tap method you can easily break a piston ring during installation !
Place the entire assembly into the cylinder with the UP towards flywheel end of course

and gently tap the piston down into the cylinder


I used a screwdriver handle (as little force as necessary to achieve the results ) if you used a 2lb hammer handle you would have a hard time realizing if a ring was not going into the cylinder properly or by the time you did it may be too late. No matter which method you use take your time and if you encounter resistance pull it back out and recheck everything.
Once your at TDC remove the band tool .


Fully tap it or push the piston in the same fashion as the sleeve method until it seats against the crank journal. Install your cap and bearing finger tight.
Also want to point out using the tap method it is easier to dislodge the upper conn rod bearing that is being held in place with grease !
 
  Rarely using the proper cone size sleeve will you have to do any tapping and will immediately know by finger pressure if you have a ring alignment issue.

[Bigwrench]

With all Pistons properly installed and conn rod caps on their original rods in the original orientation it is now time to check the fitment of the caps to the rods and also to complete our rod cap bolt torque procedure.
   These bolts as with many used on modern engines are termed "Torque to Yield" type . They actually stretch during the tightening procedure so it is critical that all steps are followed in the sequence laid out by the manufacturer .   It is also critical that you always , always use new bolts when they are this type !!!!!
  The actual torque procedure for this 200EFI is to first torque the 5/16" 12 point bolts to
1) 15 lb. in. INCH POUNDS evenly between the two
2) 30 lb. ft. FOOT POUNDS evenly between the two
3) tighten another 90 degrees !
Before we start this procedure we will look at proper connecting rod cap alignment, while they are finger tight the slight adjustments can be made to ensure a perfect fit before tightening .

With the block now "upside down" on your bench , rotate your crank using the nut we installed so that 2 of the 6 caps are at the top and easily accessible

With a bright light (since I have trouble seeing in lowlight situations I like to throw that in there) visibly inspect the side of the connecting rod cap where it mates with the connecting rod for proper alignment, there should be no gap whatsoever visible .

Also run your finger over the surface and see if you can feel one edge sticking out more than the other . Mercury says use a pencil , run the lead across the crack and see if it catches, also a good method !

If you see or feel a discrepancy using a small pocket screwdriver on the side of the cap you can ease it over one way or the other , loosening the bolts just enough to move it the other direction if need be until there is a perfect fit between the two halves

Once that is accomplished tighten the cap bolts evenly to 15 inch pounds .


  Let's talk about torquing bolts and some of the tools we have available for the process of tightening and turning
Here are a few options

On the top we have a 3/8" drive torque wrench that is digitally set and also has the capability of determining angle torque . Using vibration and beeps to let you know when you have achieved the proper torque you programmed into it and the also when you get the additional degree amount you program into it
It will do inch pounds and foot pounds and has a certain range it will cover.  If you are torquing big bolts also you will need a 1/2" drive version as well.
After each angle measurement you have to let it calibrate to 0 by setting it down for each angle torque application (some engines have multiple angle measurements added after the initial torque)  . Which can slow you down in some respects,
The slow part only comes in on the angle measurement part if you have multiple angle procedures to perform  , it is really fast for just standard torque measurements.
Edit :
After using the fancy schmanzy torque wrench of my buddies on this build and then 2 engine jobs at work I decided I liked it enough to buy one for myself that and the fact I didn't owe Snap On anything and don't like to close my account with them completely since it will affect my credit score (they are my oldest account)

This one actually has flashing lights on the sides lol. Guys can't resist flashing lights
So as a post script this is a very good torque wrench , it is also extremely expensive but if you do this for a living this would pay for itself very fast.
I have said over and over again to coworkers that I prefer a click type so I can physically feel and hear the break away of the handle when torque is achieved. A properly calibrated and maintained click type torque wrench can and will last a lifetime. But after using his for awhile I had to have one lol.



For the angle measurement there are a few options as well on the bottom left there is a mechanical angle gauge that goes in between the breaker bar and the torque wrench (never use your high dollar torque wrench to perform angle measurements) , breaker bar or large long handled ratchet work better.

On the bottom right is a Dealer special tool that works pretty slick and it attaches to an extension and is reset by the push of a button and momentarily pausing to let it reset to zero. It is also digital and programmable .

It beeps and flashes a red light when you reach the proper angle.

I like it better for applications where you can use a 1/2" extension (since it won't hold itself onto a 3/8" extension) but otherwise in this instance it is useless unless you adapt the small 5/16 socket that is in a 3/8" drive to a 1/2" drive using an adaptor like in the above photo. Or if it will fit directly on your socket without bumping anything as you turn.
For this to work it has to rotate with the bolt , if it comes in contact with anything or you bump it with your hand it will skew the reading.
It will now clamp itself on the adapter and you can properly achieve the angle you are wanting. 
The last and final method that can be used is just good old common sense ....
We all know one complete turn is 360 degrees so 90 degrees is 1/4 turn


Sometimes you get a weird spec like 18lb ft, 77 degrees and then 50 degrees obviously you would have to be as precise as possible when faced with specs like this. But 90,180,270 and 360 should be easy enough to figure out in a pinch and on a budget. 

Whichever method you decide to use just plan it out carefully and make smooth turns in one complete motion .
Once you make your final pass mark that bolt head with a paint marker or in this case a silver metallic sharpie

Turn your crank and do each set of 2 rod caps until all 6 are done.

[hughesjasonk]

Are you going to plasti gauge them before you do the final 90?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Bigwrench]

Are you going to plasti gauge them before you do the final 90?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

If I were building a automobile engine with solid conn rod bearings , yes I would at this point but since these engines use roller bearings there is no procedure as outlined by Mercury for this measurement but great catch !

[hughesjasonk]

If I were building a automobile engine with solid conn rod bearings , yes I would at this point but since these engines use roller bearings there is no procedure as outlined by Mercury for this measurement but great catch !

That's a good point about the roller bearings. So do you have to check the lash then or is it "yup looks good"?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Bigwrench]

That's a good point about the roller bearings. So do you have to check the lash then or is it "yup looks good"?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Lol best I can tell it is yep that looks good since the needles are in a cage the cage sides set the side to side play and they also can spin freely in the bore of the conn rod around the journal while running . Unlike a conventional engine where the conn rod bearings are essentially locked in place throughout their life

Evidently this is a much more efficient method for reducing friction and wouldn't be surprised if autos don't try to copy this method if they haven't already but I think oiling and maintaining oil pressure are the issue

[Bigwrench]

It is now time to install the crankcase cover or what I call the lower half (auto engine this would be above the oil pan, below the block).


In the above photo I'm dry fitting the new gasket as it comes in a straight strip. 
The first step is to completely clean the sealing surfaces and remove the two cork gaskets from the grooves on each side

Once the grooves are clean and the mating surfaces are also clean of all sealant wipe it down with a brake clean or acetone , also wipe down the corresponding surfaces on the engine block assembly. Since we have to install 2 new cork gasket strips in these grooves and turn it upside down to install I will be "gluing" these in using a 3M weatherstrip adhesive which works extremely well for securing gaskets. Some use indianhead gasket adhesive or even a spray adhesive but I prefer the 3M which can be clear,black or even yellow.

Just put a little "dab" every 4" or so in the groove

and starting at the flywheel end

work it around the curves in the groove until it is hanging over the lower end .

I like to let that glue set up so while that is happening (5-10 mins or so) I removed the oil pump

oil pump driveshaft and cleaned it. I also dry fit it in the bushing of the block.

And applied lube to the end shaft and teeth

Reach underneath and pop out the plastic drive bushing with your finger

And clean the hole

Leave it out for now because we will be installing it after the case half is in place through that hole.
I placed a straight edge (we will be using this later to check the head and deck surfaces) on top of each gasket just to add a little weight to each before assembly during the drying process


Once I was satisfied they wouldn't move and fully seated in the groove it is time to trim the ends , using a razor blade cut them flush

On both sides


Again in no hurry I let it dry a little longer and took that time to clean all 8 of the center main bolts that attach it to the block with a wire wheel to remove all corrosion and rust from the shanks and threads. Lightly lube with 2 cycle oil.



As a reminder while all this other work is going on cover your block to protect all the hard work you have already accomplished.


  Mercury calls for a Loctite Master Gasket #203 , after some serious research I found out #203 is actually a kit with #518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker and A Loctite surface primer

  Anaerobic Gasket maker is basically a sealant that cures in the Absence of Air and is used on a lot of mating surfaces where the two halves are machined smooth. It will not begin to cure until the two parts are assembled and in the absence of air. It is a slow drying sealant but since I have probably a week or more before startup time I don't need a primer to speed up the process. For my purposes I will be cleaning the surfaces with acetone to help in the adhesion and I will be using the Permatex alternative

A neat little tool anytime you have to squeeze a small tube is this little puppy !

It makes squeezing out a long bead easy and pretty consistent. We will be laying a small bead (1-2mm) on the lower half on the outside of the cork gasket and around the bolt holes

Just enough that when we torque the bolts we have continuous squeeze out all the way around
The cork gasket will keep it from squeezing out on the inside and we should have a great seal once this is set properly
  Take this time to dip your finger in your 2 cycle oil container and lube up the surfaces of the lower half where the crank rings, bearing surfaces and end caps mate

Also won't hurt to do the same to your block components again dripping some down the sides of the conn rod caps as well.

Slowly lower it onto your block assembly everything should sit down properly making sure you have all the holes lined up give it a little tap at each end with your hand and insert the 8 bolts into the center holes.

4 in the middle (no paint) and 2 at each end (black paint)



Check both your end caps to make sure they are not bound up at all and sitting flush against the block. Insert the other two bolts at each end cap with your fingers at this time , if the bolts won't start by hand slowly tighten the 8 center bolts in the proper sequence just enough to allow you to start those two bolts at each end


Torque specs for this assembly are here

I used a speed wrench to tighten by hand evenly and the as the case half was hand tight I also hand tightened the end cap bolts pulling it up tight against the block and then started the torque sequence at 38 lb ft. I inserted the 6 smaller outer bolts and tightened them to 15 lb ft.
Torque upper end cap bolts to 150 lb in and lower cap bolts to 80 lb in.

Continuous squeeze out all the way around


Lower the lubed up oil pump drive gear into the hole using needle nose pliers slowly rotate it until the teeth line up and it fully drops into the bushing.


  The half flat area of the plastic drive bushing has to mate up with the drive gear shaft

Install it properly

You will see the notch that the oil pump mates into

Clean both surfaces of the block and the pump. Inspect the O Ring and make sure it is clean and install your pump.


I should also point out the red Anaerobic sealer will not dry on the outside of the block . I will come back tomorrow and wipe the squeeze out clean with a rag as this stuff has a tendency to get all over you and your clothes during the remaining processes.   

Cover your block up , it's now time for a nap

[Lipripper]

Looking good Rick.

[Bigwrench]

Looking good Rick.

Thanks Jerry !! I'm pretty happy with it so far , plan is to take the Ranger and powerhead into work next week or weekend and set it on the lower housing.