Need some crankbait rod advice

Started by cburge, November 18, 2012, 09:37:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

cburge

I am going to be buying a new crankbait rod for 5/8 to 3/4 medium and deep diving crankbaits. What would be the best between a 6'10" medium power         fast tip action and a
                                          6'10"med. heavy  power   moderate tip action rod?
What would the advantages and disadvantages be between the rods for this application?

Tavery5

Quote from: cburge on November 18, 2012, 09:37:26 PM
I am going to be buying a new crankbait rod for 5/8 to 3/4 medium and deep diving crankbaits. What would be the best between a 6'10" medium power         fast tip action and a
                                          6'10"med. heavy  power   moderate tip action rod?
What would the advantages and disadvantages be between the rods for this application?

Rods are not only rated in terms of power and action, but they have the weight range that they are designed to be best used with.   Pick the rod that 5/8 to 3/4 is in it's sweet spot. 

Many people prefer moderate or moderate fast action rods when using baits with trebble hooks.  There are many reasons why, but most agree that they help keep fish on, when using these hooks.

duke13372

Have you already chosen a brand.  I have assumed so since you mention a 6-10 length.  I have custom rods that I had built cutting back an inch or two and have regretted it.  I also had one of these rods where the handle was made a little longer and as you could guess I have a couple of inches less on the fighting side of the rod; also a mistake.  Again, a personal preference which I prefer a 7 foot rod.  As Tavery said, the lure if make a big difference in what power you will select.  The action I would prefer is the moderate and with the weight of the lures you'll probably need a MH power.  If you're throwing lighter than the DD 22's and such you can probably use a medium power.  I had the same issue with a spinning rod.  I needed a rod to throw a vast array of weights with many different techniques.  It needed some power but also enough give to keep trebles hooked up.  I was very limited on my choices because of these lure weights.  Finally found a used St Croix.  I will tell you that the lure weight recommendations aren't always accurate but a good starting point.  Good luck on your decision.

sgsmooth

#3
if you have to pick just one it's going to be a compromise.  I talked to a couple of guys on here about a similar issue, with trying to select a rod for fishing jigs.

the most versatile I think would be the MH moderate action rod.  heavier baits will be better controlled with that, medium weight baits should still be ok with the right reel, and the moderate action is typical crankbait stuff...loading a little slowly for better hooksets and control of fish with treble hooks.  I also would prefer a 7' if it was me, but that's all preference like duke said. 

drawback (depending on brand, components, and construction etc.) is sensitivity and having enough response in the tip to rip baits when necessary.  I have the same problem right now, that my crankbait rod (fiberglass/graphite composite with moderate action and heavy power) is suited well to open water and rocks etc. but gets bogged down easily when fishing grass edges.  I just can't feel the grass as well as I'd like, and by the time the sensation is transmitted up the rod I've often already picked up enough grass that a quick pop of the rod upward won't free up the mess I'm now dragging along.  so especially if I want to rip lipless cranks through grass I could have a better setup I suppose, but that also doesn't mean it won't work whatsoever, just that it could be better.  just pros and cons like you said.  I may add another rod next year with stiffer response for that reason, also doubling it to use for spinnerbaits.

I should add I saw an add or video online for a new shimano cranking series and they were even making a "soft -cover" cranking rod with somewhat faster action and a different taper than a "hard cover" cranking rod.  I think it was part of the Crucial series?  makes sense, but sooner or later all these specialty rods are getting out of hand.  it's just the trend right now.  throw in different types/weights of line and it gets even more confusing.  but unless you're pro you can't take 20 rods on a boat and even then you hear alot of competitive guys talking about streamlining their tackle and approaches too.

duke13372

I bought a used custom rod by Rich Forhan and had to have the guides changed for left hand reel (it has a "Robert's Wrap" aka Spiral Wrap).  George's Custom Rods touts the blank (Seeker BS 706 / 7' / S-Glass, Lure: 3/8 - 1 oz.     Line: 10 - 20# Power: Heavy     Action: Mod-Fast) as "One of the BEST Crankbait Blanks Available" on his web site.  I have to say that if someone wanted an all around rod for medium to large crankbaits this rod should be a candidate.  However I think you'll have to get someone like George to build it.  I know that Rich sold many of these when he was on the "Bass Fishing Home Page".  Unfortunately he got involved with letting another fellow build and sell this rod and I don't think either one is building anymore.  However I have had George build rods for me and he did a good job.

Down4ttown

I bought an h2o ethos crankbait rod for $50. It is cheaper but I am still learning about the more expensive equipment. This thing is legit. I have yet to miss a fish on it. The rod keeps constant tension and has amazed me for the price.

duke13372

Yeah, that's why I asked about the $69 Wright and Mcgill Rick Clunn Crankbait rods in another post.  I have expensive crankbait rods that I'm not totally happy.  Then again I have some custom rods that are excellent, especially for smaller cranks.  But I'm sure there's a cheap "E" or "S" glass rod that is over looked that would make an excellent cranking rod.  Usually the glass rods are cheaper and in my opinion the best material for trebles.  They're not only moderate action but also have a slower rebounding action.  You can get a cheap, great rod for cranking but just make sure it's not too heavy.  The cheap rods won't always be the lightest and you'll feel it after a tournament day. 

cburge

I just wanted to thank all of you for the imput on helping me choose between the two rods I was considering. Yes, Duke13372 I had already choosen a brand. I wanted to go with a Fenwick elite tech smallmouth series rod. I will be using it primarly for deep cranking for largemouth bass and the reason I went with this rod is because the reel seat is so much comfortable and easier on your hands for a long day of throwing deep diving crankbaits. I primarly use the bomber fat free shads and they are a load to pull through the water. If you ever get a chance to try one out I think you'll be suprised at how much less fatigued your hands will be after a long day of cranking.

pondboss

I think you kinda pigeon holed yourself with a rod under 7'.  All 3 rods I would recommend are 7' or over.

If you've seen any of my posts on here about rods, you will know that I am a huge fan of the H2O Xpress line of rods.  I have ever modle they make and multiples of each.  That being said I don't pay much attention to the weight of crankbaits, but will give examples of how I have a few cranks set up.

7' composite cranking rod: Bomber 4a, 6a, square A,Norman Nseries 10ft or less, 3xd
7' MH: KVD 1.5, 2.5, rattle trap baits, chatterbait
7' 10" composite cranking rod: DD22, 5xd. 6xd, 14-20 fat free shad

I really think either of these options will handle what you are looking for.  The 7' MH would be a decent balance between the two, and at the price point of $60 ($40 during rod riot) you can afford to maybe get multiple options.


The early bird may indeed get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese

coldfront

something else to factor in:  line type/weight.

I stray off the normal path a lot.  with heavier baits as you talk, classically a 'MH' rod would be considered.  I always try to go with the rod that is as sensitive as possible...and I don't get so caught up in parabolic actions...finding the most critical aspect of the rod is that which allows me to most effectively cast the bait.

between using 10-12 pound line (flourocarbon or mono) and staying focussed on rod position and drag settings, I can keep the rod properly loaded and 'the system' effective when bass go a little crazy.

a softer action rod can help an angler who's 'over-amped'...or the angler can find a way to be more in control of themselves.


Lots of rods, rod combinations out there will work great.  A couple of them will best fit with how you want to use them as an individual.