Casting reels making noise, it's probably not what you think.

[Pro Reel]

When people send me reels for service, many of them will list problems that they have noticed with the reel. One of the most common issues I see is  that their reel is making noise. Most will describe the noise as anywhere from a high pitched squeal to a chirping or clicking noise that occurs during the cast. Almost everyone says that the bearings are making the noise. On reels that I have serviced, the most common complaint after some time of using the reel, is this same noise. The customer is always afraid that something happend to the bearings. I can tell you this, it's almost never the bearings making these noises. When noises like this occur, it's usually while they are using the reel and the noise will get worse as they use it. Bearings don't go bad like that. Also, when a bearing does go bad, it almost never makes noise but will make the reel feel rough or you will feel a clicking sensation. The other thing that happens in conjunction with this noise from reels is that casting distance will decrease also. This would definitely make you think that a bearing has gone bad, but that's now whats happening. If you think about the noise, it's very similar to a fingernail on a chalkboard or a fork scraping a plate. Bearings don't generally make noises like that. Noises like that are caused by something rubbing a surface. What rubs inside a reel during a cast that can both make a noise and affect distance? The answer is your brakes. All reels with centrifugal brakes have plastic or fiber tabs that rub the inside of a brake ring. That brake ring and those tabs have to be lubricated or they will be rubbing on a dry surface. Anytime something rubs a dry surface, it will make a noise. As stated, it can be a variety of noises that happen on the cast, but 99% of the time it will be dry brakes. Now, why would that also cause the reel to slow down? The answer is the same, dry brakes. When a dry plastic tab rubs a dry brake ring, the friction is a lot more than when it's oiled, so much more in fact that the ends of the tabs will often melt and have fringe hanging off of them. Most new reels come with a thin to thick layer of grease on the brake ring. Grease will lube the brake ring and keep it from making noise, but it also cause inconsistent braking. Therefore, after a reel has been serviced, the brake ring and tabs will be oiled, but not greased. The braking is much more consistent with oiled brake parts, but oil doesn't last as long as grease. If you have a reel with centrifugal brakes, you need to wipe a drop or two of reel oil around the inside of the brake ring at least once a month. A few drops on a Qtip makes it easy to do. It's also just a heck of a good practice to get into of opening the side cover to oil your brakes frequently as this will give you the chance to wipe a little grease on the side cover locking tabs or threads. You would be amazed at how many reels I see that have never been opened and I quite often wonder if I'm going to be able to open it without breaking the cover due to corrosion and the fact that it was never opened for lubrication or adjustment. If you don't know how to open your side cover to access the brakes or to oil the parts, send me a PM here or post a question here. Having your reels serviced once a year is a great thing to do for them, but they will still need some attention from you between services. It's a good idea to keep a small bottle of reel oil and a tube of grease along with some Q-tips as an emergency service kit. If your reel is new and has not been serviced, use the stock lubes that should have come with it. If I have serviced your reels, the brake parts will have yellow label rocket fuel oil on them and the side cover locking tabs should have cals universal reel grease on them. Mixing brands on brake parts and locking tabs probably won't hurt anything though it's definitely not a good idea to mix brands in other areas of the reel.

[duke13372]

Very good information.  However, I have two reels by two different manufacturers and it's on the retrieve where I'm getting noise.  One of these reels had an extremely large amount of side to side play in the shaft when it arrived.  I'm convinced at this point that there's too much play between parts in these reels.  I have always been a fan of the Shimano Calcutta and much has been made of the tight tolerances in the manufacture of these reels.  I can say that even in Shimano's cheap graphite reels from two decades ago I haven't experienced so much noise out of a reel as I have these other brands.  Yes, these reels aren't their best but they're not their entry level graphite models.  I personally think they're at a price level that this should not be happening.  One of these reels went back right after I got it for a different reason and the other I'm planing on sending it back next week.  I haven't bought a Shimano lately but I'd be surprised if the tolerances are not still spot on.  I've purchased what I'd call an Abu Revo clone with a private label and I recently picked up a Quantum that appears to be a nice reel.  I certainly don't appreciate a loose reel even in the mid price ranges.  I thought that some of these companies were stepping up to make a run at Shimano and Abu but as of right now I'd recommend that they stay with these tried and true companies.  Apparently the quality control with the contenders isn't what it needs to be.  I took the reels apart and took a look inside.  As Pro Reel noted about the brake ring,  this reel was just the opposite.  It had way too much grease on the ring.  The second reel had grease on the bearing.  I feel both of these companies were rushing to get reels out on the market since they were new offerings.  Perhaps being the first one on the block to get a new model isn't the smart thing to do.

[Bluecrew13]

My smoke has been making noise and I oiled it and cleaned it already. I think it's time to get someone who knows a little more than just running oil on it haha

[HunterFB]

 ~c~I am glad this thread was started.  I have a Revo Premier, that is only about a year and a half old, it was working like a champ, then , one day, just started to get that sound.  I looked into how to properly maintain the reel, as I was doing it wrong, and I took it apart and oiled it in the correct places, used grease for the others as required.  No more noise, works like a champ again, looking forward to using it for a few more fun-filled years.  All of my other brands of reels were treated tot he same ceaning and servicing, I did them all in about 3 hours (10 reels). It was easy, and I thought I was going to have to pitch a reel, but it is going strong again.

[Polaris425]

Thanks for this. I have one at home that I'm experiencing the same issues with, and never thought about oiling that part... Going to do it as soon as I get home.

[Tylermsawmiller]

I have three lews speed spools (ss1s, ss1h, ss1sh) which do not have the centrifugal brakes on the palming side plate. I think they have a magnetic braking system. I could be way off base with how im trying to describe them, but in the case of these lews, how would I go about oiling the brake system?

A second question I have, with the four ball bearings in each reel that im able to remove, how would i go about thoroughly cleaning them and re oiling them? Is it possible to remove the shields? I soak them in ardent reel cleaner, then blow them out with a can of condensed air, then try to get that one little tiny drop of oil to squeeze in between the shields, but i fear im not doing an adequate job.

[Pro Reel]

I have three lews speed spools (ss1s, ss1h, ss1sh) which do not have the centrifugal brakes on the palming side plate. I think they have a magnetic braking system. I could be way off base with how im trying to describe them, but in the case of these lews, how would I go about oiling the brake system?

A second question I have, with the four ball bearings in each reel that im able to remove, how would i go about thoroughly cleaning them and re oiling them? Is it possible to remove the shields? I soak them in ardent reel cleaner, then blow them out with a can of condensed air, then try to get that one little tiny drop of oil to squeeze in between the shields, but i fear im not doing an adequate job.

Your reels have mag brakes, therefore if you are hearing a squeal on the cast, you know it's not the brakes therefore it's just about got to be the bearings. It is possible to remove the shields, it's just a real bear to do it. You have to use a small needle and try to catch the end of the tiny wire clip and pry it out. If you can get the wire clip out then the shield will just fall off with a tap. If you get that far then it's easy to clean with a can of brake clean and use the extension nozzle to hose it out. I built a simple tool that will clean and tune a bearing without removing the shield. It's a wood cone that you peg a bearing on and then spin the bearing at high speed while submersed in solvent. It forms a vortex and sucks solvent through the small gap between the shield and race. It gets everything out of the bearing including microscopic dust left over from manufacturing. It's flat out amazing how free a stock bearing spins after doing that to them. I hope to be building them for sale soon. You can build your own if you have a lathe and a way of drilling a hole in the center for the 1/8 in dremmel shaft. I have found that getting them to spin balanced if the hardest part. Just about finished with a set of jigs to build them.

[STANGDUDERANGER]

Where the jigs ever made and how much are they?
I have a grinding noise coming from 2 reels now, a Lews bb1 and a Daiwa tatula. It really does sound like gear, but at the same time I can see your point. Going to try serios rebuild by saturday.

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[morgmach]

I've got two Abu Garcia MGX baitcasters ($349 per) and they both have a similar issue.  Occasionally when I cast the reel makes a grinding noise.  I'm pretty sure it's because the thumb bar \ clutch isn't pushed in all the way.  I do press it as hard as other cast I think, but it seems to not fully click into place.  In the past I had two BPS CarbonLite 2 reels that did the same thing and it was a spring that clicked the bar up once you turn the handle, but this seems different.  Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.   

[Capt. BassinLou]

I've got two Abu Garcia MGX baitcasters ($349 per) and they both have a similar issue.  Occasionally when I cast the reel makes a grinding noise.  I'm pretty sure it's because the thumb bar \ clutch isn't pushed in all the way.  I do press it as hard as other cast I think, but it seems to not fully click into place.  In the past I had two BPS CarbonLite 2 reels that did the same thing and it was a spring that clicked the bar up once you turn the handle, but this seems different.  Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.   

Welcome to UB. You're in luck, the owner of UB is also a great reel technician. Mike can get you squared away just look for Mike Cork. He's all over the forum. 

[Mike Cork]

I've got two Abu Garcia MGX baitcasters ($349 per) and they both have a similar issue.  Occasionally when I cast the reel makes a grinding noise.  I'm pretty sure it's because the thumb bar \ clutch isn't pushed in all the way.  I do press it as hard as other cast I think, but it seems to not fully click into place.  In the past I had two BPS CarbonLite 2 reels that did the same thing and it was a spring that clicked the bar up once you turn the handle, but this seems different.  Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.   

In this case, I'd lean more to old sticky grease preventing a complete disengagement of the spool when you press the button. Now if they are nearly new, I'd take them back and get new ones. This reel shouldn't do this. How often does this happen?

[WTodd]

The older I get the quieter my reels get......curious if there's a correlation.


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[fishballer06]

The older I get the quieter my reels get......curious if there's a correlation.