Lowrance 522iGPS shuts down

[flippinout]

I'm having trouble with my 522iGPS(mounted at the console) shutting down.  It'll shut down in choppy water or when driving over someone's wake.  It also occasionally shuts down when I start the outboard.  It sounds like a short or loose connection.  I've checked all the connections at the fuse block and at the battery but can't seem to find anything wrong.  Any suggestions??

[BassBUFF]

The input voltage is dropping below the minimum to power the unit. This can be caused by a loose connection or your battery isn't up to snuff. I'm thinking the latter since it sometimes dies when you crank the engine. There is an option on the menu, can't remember exactly where, that allows you to monitor the input voltage. I'll bet it's reading around 11-12 volts and it should be closer to 13. It'll shut off around 10.5 if I remember correctly.

[flippinout]

The battery was replaced 3 months ago.  This is why I don't like messing with electrical things.  You narrow down the issue but there's 50 ways to fix the problem.  And.. It usually costs something for every solution. 

[BassBUFF]

Check the in-line fuse. A bad connection (or corrosion) will cause a resistance which will drop the voltage.

[flippinout]

Is it a bad thing that I didn't use the in-line fuses?  I wired both of my units to the fuse block.  I figured this was better in order to shut current off to the units with the main power switch when not in use.  Should I use both?

[CatFan]

Is it a bad thing that I didn't use the in-line fuses?  I wired both of my units to the fuse block.  I figured this was better in order to shut current off to the units with the main power switch when not in use.  Should I use both?

You should use the inline fuses.  If something happens to the unit or the connector, the wires to the unit could overheat before the fuse in the block blows.  The only safe way to use a fuse block is if each fuse supplies only one unit and the fuse is the same size as the inline.  Fuses are for wires, so anytime the wire gauge decreases, you need an inline fuse appropriate for the new wire gauge.

[flippinout]

You should use the inline fuses.  If something happens to the unit or the connector, the wires to the unit could overheat before the fuse in the block blows.  The only safe way to use a fuse block is if each fuse supplies only one unit and the fuse is the same size as the inline.  Fuses are for wires, so anytime the wire gauge decreases, you need an inline fuse appropriate for the new wire gauge.

Thanks for the info CatFan and BassBuff.  Both of my units are on separate positions in the fuse block and I used the appropriate fuse for the units.  I believe they are 3 amp fuses.  I used the fuse block because it was centrally located, especially for the front unit.  I didn't want to run an extension wire for the front unit. I can't verify the fuse rating right now because my boat is 6000 miles away from me at home.  I'm currently deployed.  I'll keep all this info and mess with my set-up in the spring when I get home.  Should I take the units off the fuse block and only run the in-line fuse or add the in-line fuse with the fuse block?

Thanks again

[BassBUFF]

Thanks for your service flippinout! Just returned from a deployment myself .

I would add the in-line fuse too.

[Baron49]

I have a 520C bow mounted that was doing the same thing.  Solved the problem with the unit shutting down when running over rough water by replacing the stock Lowrance in-line fuse holders with better quality ones that take a flat fuse and have a cap over the fuse. (FYI...if you do not use an in-line fuse your Lowrance warranty is voided....it is spelled out in the manual and two are required for the 520's.  One for the unit and the other to power the antenna.)

Still had a problem with the 520C shutting down when I started the big motor.  Found out that after several hours on the water my boat battery was losing power.  With two Lowrance units on the dash, one on the bow, the livewells, and all the other electrical, it did not take long for the battery to drop below 11.7 vts.  The 520C would shut down due to the draw needed to start the big motor.  Had to go to a bigger battery with more power and it solved the problem. 

Today's electronics draw a lot of power and it does not take long to draw a battery down when you are doing more fishing then running.

[radarman]

No problems in shuting down - but - I don't get any display on the depth finder portion of my unit at cruising speeds.  The tech that works on my boat told me it would not read at speeds around 40MPH or higher (all i get is a bunch of garbled yellow lines).  The GPS and Maping portion work fine.  Anyone with knowledge of this ?

[bassinbob 1]

If your transducer is mounted outside on any high performance bass boat it will not get a depth reading . The transducer comes out of the water when the boat gets on plane .The only way to get a high speed reading is to have a inside the hull transducer epoxied in bilge area . You will lose some sensitivity with in hull mounted so you will have to decide what is important to you . The only way to have it both ways is install a transom mounted transducer and a switch box to switch between inside or outside transducer. It is available from LEI .

[BassBUFF]

If your transducer is mounted outside on any high performance bass boat it will not get a depth reading . The transducer comes out of the water when the boat gets on plane .

Well this is true if it is mounted high. You can mount it low but you also run the risk of knocking it off fishing shallow water or timber.

[bassinbob 1]

the transducer should be 12-18" from outboard to prevent cavitation from prop wash .