Which handgun holds it's value best?

[WTodd]

Look for a police trade in.

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Funny you should say that; I bought my model 17 from a retired cop.


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[allaboutfun]

Kimber, Ed Brown and Colt if you're looking for something that will hold its value. 

[SteelHorseCowboy]

I'm sorry to hear that. I use to frequent a Ruger forum that was not affiliated with the Ruger company. They had hundreds of posts/stories where Ruger was extremely nice and easy to deal with like my experience. But yes unfortunately we are human and maybe someone was having a bad day when you called.

Mike if you don't mind I also would like to know what model and issue you are having? I would bet Ruger will make you happy they over all try very hard to from the couple dealings I have had.

Probably the same board I used to frequent. I left because I have a serious issue with "JUST CALL RUGER!" always and forever being the go-to solution to everything.
Some of the people on the forum I frequented seemed terrified of doing anything more than the most basic field strip: remove magazine, remove slide, remove barrel and spring from slide... anything more than that and they acted like it was pure witchcraft that'd send 'em straight to hell. I got the impression a few would like to burn me at the stake for sorcery, I'm over here with my LC9s Pro, no trigger safety, shortened and lightened trigger pull. Ermagherd. People lost their minds.

I attribute my one bad experience with Ruger CS to someone having a bad day, and it doesn't shake my feelings towards Ruger at all. There's no telling what may have happened to that lady before I called her, life has a way of throwing curve balls.

It's having a feed jamming problem. It's actually Laurie's weapon, a .380 LCP. She shot maybe 10 boxes (500 rounds) through it before it started having the problem.

Have you disassembled the slide completely, cleaned and thoroughly lubed the firing pin, firing pin channel, and extractor?
The tolerances for the way these parts fit in the slide is very tight, and the LCP, LC9, LC9S, and LC9S Pro will stop dead in their tracks if these areas get dirty and dry. I've fixed this issue in mine and Connie's guns by honing and polishing the inside of the striker channel, polishing all friction points on the striker, deburring and polishing the extractor slot, and polishing all contact surfaces of the extractor. Basically I put some slop in the tolerances and gave them a smooth surface that fouling has a harder time sticking to.

I've run into this issue a few times with these models, and it's been the same culprit every time. What happens is, the striker/firing pin channel (depending on the model) starts getting dry and collecting very small amounts of carbon and brass dust through the hole in the breech face. Meanwhile, the exact same thing happens with the extractor. Then the firing pin or striker starts having difficulty retreating back through the breech face after firing, and the extractor starts getting a bit stiff. These two factors don't play well together at all. The firing pin is staying pressed against the primer and creating just enough friction that when the ejector tries to kick the empty brass out, the extractor and firing pin don't want to let go of it easily enough. It's the next round feeding that finishes kicking the empty out, which messes with the feeding and causes the fresh round to usually go nose up.

Every single time the issue first comes up after about 500 rounds but almost always before 1,000. Took about 600 for it to start happening to ours.
You wouldn't think such a small amount of fouling would play this much havoc, but it does.

If you have any spent brass from your last shoot when it was malfunctioning, or if you're able to pop off a couple in the back yard or maybe a friend's backyard if you don't live out in the country, take a look at the dented primer. The impression should be perfectly round and well defined. If it's elongated, not well defined, or looks like the firing pin skipped across the primer or was dragged across it, then that's exactly what the issue is.

Before I figured this out, mine got so bad it was leaving a groove across the primer all the way to the brass.

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[Oldfart9999]

I still would take the 12GA over a pistol or AR for in home self defense any day.

Yep, 12 ga. shortest barrel that's legal, no choke, 5 shot pump, #4 bird shot, larger margin of error at a time when the adrenaline is high and the nerves are at their worst, won't penetrate the walls of your neighbor either.
Rodney 

[D.W. Verts]

Guns have historically been a good investment. Strange enough, with Trump in office and this new Supreme Court dude gun sales have fell of tremendously- liberals in charge are great for gun sales.

Before the '16 election I was offered $75,000 for my M 28 Thompson sub-machine gun. It's worth less than half that now, but that's still $10K more than it cost in 1985.

I'm selling all of my Class III guns and they have all appreciated considerably, as have my Winchesters, some Smiths and Rugers (I don't own Glocks and stuff like that). My Desert Eagle is one of the original .44 mags, and I've turned down two grand for it- I think it was $1300 new.

All quality guns will hold 80% plus of their value. Collectors guns (spelled WINCHESTER etc) have continued to gain in price and should continue to do so.

Back to Mikes original question- I think that the old three-screw style Smiths and S&W revolvers overall hold their value well, and Ruger is strong with their autos. Although I've seen stupid prices payed for Blackhawks.

[WTodd]

Yep, 12 ga. shortest barrel that's legal, no choke, 5 shot pump, #4 bird shot, larger margin of error at a time when the adrenaline is high and the nerves are at their worst, won't penetrate the walls of your neighbor either.
Rodney

The only problem with a .12 gauge is there's usually some drywall repairs needed afterwards


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[Wizard]

My Harvey Casson Supreme Camp Perry Competition 1911's were made in 1978. I sold them and was lucky to buy them back.

Wizard