Battery Help

Started by jprism, January 07, 2015, 09:52:45 AM

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jprism

I just removed and had tested my 2 trolling battery's from my boat and found 1 had a bad cell and was not charging fully. Both battery's are AGM Deka's and are Group Size 27. Both battery's are the same age 4+ years.

Questions....

Where in Nashville area is the best source to buy marine battery's?

Since 1 battery test good, would it be wrong to simply replace the bad one with a different manufacturer of the same size & type?

Thanks, Jim
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Mike Cork

At four years old, I would recommend replacing both of them. It's not going to be long before you loose a cell in the other one. Getting 4 years out of a set of batteries is really good. AGM are supposed to last longer but...

Weak batteries ruin an outing or tournament, no sense taking a chance on that.

I'm not familiar with your area, but the last set of AGM's I bought, I ordered them through Amazon. They beat all local prices. I even had a failure and Amazon replaced it no questions.

Fishing is more than just a hobby

Dobyns Rods - Monster Fishing Tackle
Cork's Reel Service

jprism

Thanks Mike...

Mine telling me what brand battery you purchased thru Amazon?

Happy New Year, Jim
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Mike Cork

Not at all, they were Optima's about 4 years ago

The one that went bad, apparently really didn't. Because Amazon didn't want it back I buddy took it and put it on a trickle charge for a week and is still running it today.

Fishing is more than just a hobby

Dobyns Rods - Monster Fishing Tackle
Cork's Reel Service

Dark3

Was there any symptom of the bad cell? I run my two TM batteries in parralel and charge with a one bank. The batteries are pretty new (interstate 29's on a 10A noco genius) but its nice to k ow what to look out for. Just got mine back in the boat from the move and all the water is good and showed me a green light after like 20 minutes of charging and being unhooked for months

Pferox

A big battery is nothing more than a bunch of smaller batteries put together into one big package.  Each cell is a little battery.  Usually when a cell goes out, you can take and test the voltage and will read a lower fully charged voltage as compared to when it was fully charged when new, depending upon the number of cells that make up the battery the charged numbers may be very small.  Example is a 12 volt battery usually shows fully charged at about 13.6, give or take a bit.  One with a bad cell may read in at 12 volts.  Many chargers will show the battery charged at that point.  If fully charged runs down to 11 volts, than an error may show up with auto chargers.

Now it gets a little technical here, when you add batteries to make 24 volts,  you are increasing the number of cells in a circuit, when this happens the effect of one bad cell isn't as noticeable in comparison to the whole. This is why many times a set up will show fully charged, but will discharge quicker because the other batteries are carrying the load of the bad cell.

Quickest way to check a battery is to check the individual fully charged voltage with the battery disconnected from the circuit.  If it isn't reading correctly, then it needs to be tested further with a tester to check for shorts, and things like that internally.

Hope that explains it a little as I understand it.
"If you think you are too small to be effective, you have never been in bed with a mosquito" - African Proverb.  Jim

jprism

Had mine tested because 1 of them would never show green and volts read 11.5 after charging
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