I got some Ardent reel oil and reel butter from Santa Clause this year so while the waters are frozen around here and I couldn't fish anyways, I thought I might as well clean my reels. I've never done this before but I figured with a couple of internet videos and a question or two here if I needed to, I could figure it out.
All in all, not a terrible job. I ran into a problem a couple of times that weren't to bad to figure out. First problem I ran into is when I pulled the side plate off the gear side of one of the reels. A bearing/bushing thing came off the shaft that I wasn't expecting. When I put the reel back together it would not retrieve. The part had two distinct sides on it and I suspected by not being the correct side up, that it could cause this. So I pulled it back apart, flipped that bushing over, put it back together again and it worked! Good deal I thought.
The next problem was a little more entailed. I should have known better about this but I was using a Q-tip to clean the line guide worm gear bar while turning the reel. You guessed it, I sucked the tip of the Q-tip right into the guide and drive. Here's where it gets worse. I figured hey its just a little soft cotton. If I real past it, it should kind of clean itself out of there. Right? Nope! It actually just packed a lot more cotton than I thought came off that Q-tip into the worm drive. I tried getting the crap out of there by picking at it but quickly realized that it was going to have to come apart.
With more than a little nervousness, I tore that reel down again, pulled the line guide drive completely apart, and got it cleaned up. I got everything put back together and didn't even have any spare parts left over!
I had watched a very good video of that exact reel being cleaned so I felt that I should be able to handle it if I was careful and took my time.
The end result is I have some nice clean reels that all still work! In fact they seem to work great.
In the end, I really had fun doing this. I learned a lot about my reels, and it kind of helped to scratch the itch I had to go fishing.
I have always wanted to do that as well. Just too many little do dads and whatchamacallits for my old eyes. I just send them to Mike Cork and have him do his thing.
Quote from: Bud Kennedy on December 27, 2015, 12:17:43 PM
I have always wanted to do that as well. Just too many little do dads and whatchamacallits for my old eyes. I just send them to Mike Cork and have him do his thing.
Cant say that I blame you there at all.
I am naturally a tinkerer (is that a word?) and I always like to have a bit of knowledge of how the things I use work.
I also had two reels that I really don't use anymore and I figured I'd try first on those. I didn't feel like I would be out much if worst came to worse.
Congrats on performing the maintenance ~c~ They really aren't to difficult, but I've torn down thousands. I do remember my first couple and it's intimidating, then I remember the first time a spring went flying LOL...
I try to keep the prices low enough that it's worth it not to risk it for those that are willing to trust me with their equipment. But I'll always offer assistance to anyone that wants to try.
I always recommend using your phone and taking lots of pictures as you disassembled, that way you can see how it goes back together :-*
That's solid advice Mike.
The other thing I did was when I took off parts, I laid them out in exactly the order and the orientation they came off.
I keep an owners manual/parts list and an egg carton or something similar to put the parts in as you pull them off, makes it easier to put them back together. As far as springs and what not falling, jumping or rolling away, you're on your own. ~roflmao Keep a flashlight with good batteries handy. lo
Rodney
I read once to remove any spring loaded parts that may be under tension with the reel inside a large clear plastic bag (one gallon plastic freezer bags come to mind). This way if a part takes flight it can't go far. Using a clear bag let's you see what you're doing as you remove it.
To help control parts that want to roll away I always like to work on a broad flat surface so it's less likely that something hits the floor. I usually use the coffee table in the living room for comfort. I turn on bass fishing on TV as I do it. ;D I can also lean forward and place my elbows on my knees for stability as I use a screwdriver to delicately loosen screws so the tool doesn't slip. Seems to help me, anyway. Then I spread out a white dish cloth material towel so it's not too fuzzy, and disassemble the reel on this, laying out parts in order and orientation as I remove them. The greasyness of the parts help them to stick and resist rolling. The softness of the towel helps make sure parts that do move don't go too far like they might on a hard surface. Using a white towel makes the parts easy to see, and gives me a place to wipe excess grease and oil. You might also lay a cheap paper poster board under this as further protection to the table surface below, and to keep the wife happy (off your back).
I would like to start cleaning my own reels; I have cleaned my older Ambassadeurs; but my Shimano D's and E's I have been a little nervous about doing so. The mechanic that serviced my reels passed away; and I trusted his judgement. My question is; what to use cleaning bearings, and what grease to use on drive gears. I here lighter fluid, simple green, denatured alcohol,etc.. for cleaning. As for grease; I here Super Lube, Ardent Butter, and for Shimano's; I here the drag gease is ok from some people; and others say it's not to be used on gears? I have read a lot on this; saw a lot of videos; and it gets confusing. May just need a new service place I feel comfortable with.
Quote from: Hobbes on February 19, 2016, 09:40:44 AM
I would like to start cleaning my own reels; I have cleaned my older Ambassadeurs; but my Shimano D's and E's I have been a little nervous about doing so. The mechanic that serviced my reels passed away; and I trusted his judgement. My question is; what to use cleaning bearings, and what grease to use on drive gears. I here lighter fluid, simple green, denatured alcohol,etc.. for cleaning. As for grease; I here Super Lube, Ardent Butter, and for Shimano's; I here the drag gease is ok from some people; and others say it's not to be used on gears? I have read a lot on this; saw a lot of videos; and it gets confusing. May just need a new service place I feel comfortable with.
Degreaser like you said to clean everything. I use acetone for the bearings personally, lighter fluid is great as well. As far as drag grease, Shimano star drag grease is best for me. Grease for the gears and such, I use a marine grease that can be found at any local hardware/auto store. Oil, I personally use the Ardent oil, as it being a little thicker stays applied longer.
Hobbes, your all over it. It's just a matter of taking the chance. If you can do an Ambassador you can handle the Curado. It's not the same but the concept IMO is just as simple. Use your phone and take pictures along the way.
If you get stuck there are a couple of us that can get you going again :-*
You might even find some pics online of your particular reels opened up prior to you actually doing so yourself, so you have some idea going in what to expect. The Shimano D and E reels were pretty popular.
Oil or no-oil when cleaning the roller clutch bearing? I have heard placing a few drops of oil on a Q-tip and running it through the bearing. And have also heard running the Q-tip dry though the bearing. I know too much oil here can cause the clutch not to work; but can the oil cause permanent failure of the roller bearing? I've heard this somewhere.
Another question? Everyone talks about cleaning baitcasters; but few service centers do cleaning repair on spinning reels. How far are Ya'll breaking these down to clean?
Quote from: Hobbes on February 21, 2016, 08:39:09 PM
Oil or no-oil when cleaning the roller clutch bearing? I have heard placing a few drops of oil on a Q-tip and running it through the bearing. And have also heard running the Q-tip dry though the bearing. I know too much oil here can cause the clutch not to work; but can the oil cause permanent failure of the roller bearing? I've heard this somewhere.
Clean the AR bearing off really good. Some like you said use a thin coat of oil, some use a very small amount of grease. I personally use a VERY small amount of grease.
I also use a very small amount of grease in the ARB. Too much and it will fail. But if you fish in the heat the grease lasts longer.
I tear every reel I clean to the frame. Every peice comes off and gets cleaned and inspected. Most places, including myself, don't do spinning reels because of the time it takes. Basically twice as long and a ton more parts to stock.
Quote from: Mike Cork on February 22, 2016, 05:46:24 AM
Most places, including myself, don't do spinning reels because of the time it takes. Basically twice as long and a ton more parts to stock.
Familiarity often makes a job much easier. I prefer working on my four spinning reels (same model) than tear into any of the six models of casting reels I own.
oe
This is very true
Quote from: OkobojiEagle on February 22, 2016, 06:42:41 AM
Familiarity often makes a job much easier. I prefer working on my four spinning reels (same model) than tear into any of the six models of casting reels I own.
oe
That is true, I'm more apt to break down my Penn spinning reels, and almost any of the other brands I own than one of my baitcasters.
Youre supposed to service a spinning reel? I thought you just buy a $50 one and throw it away after 10 years? ~roflmao
Quote from: LgMouthGambler on February 22, 2016, 07:39:21 AM
Youre supposed to service a spinning reel? I thought you just buy a $50 one and throw it away after 10 years? ~roflmao
That's what I do...
You can spend a ton of money on a spinning reel. And for anglers that use them a lot, it's worth the money. Those you can not just pitch :o
Quote from: Mike Cork on February 22, 2016, 07:54:18 AM
That's what I do...
You can spend a ton of money on a spinning reel. And for anglers that use them a lot, it's worth the money. Those you can not just pitch :o
Tell me about it. Ive seen them for $300, for what!!?? I guess those that use them could say the same for us caster users though.
Sorry guys but spinning reels are a major part of a fishermen's arsenal and should be maintained for good service. I don't find them any harder then my baitcasters, they don't have any more parts. Even the 50$ ones can be made to last a long time.
Rodney
Oldfart I agree, spinning reels have a place in bass fishing. There is no doubt about that. Here in Louisiana it's a very small place, where just a little bit north to Arkansas they have a much larger role. That said, we have anglers here that only fish with spinning reels.
As far as cleaning them, for me, it's a parts issue. I just don't have the room to stock all the parts. The anti reverse systems can be tricky too and sometimes take up a lot of time to reassemble.
Breaking down my first Shimano tonight. I bought a used one cheap to start on. Did not know the Curado 100d had a plastic drive gear. Thought they were made of Aluminum.
The drive gear is aluminum. The worm gears are plastic. Can you get us a photo?
Yeah. The drive gear is black, but its aluminum.
Well, aside from the Shimano Symetre I once owned, which was only $100, every spinning reel I have had was under $60, but I still service them. I find that I prefer tearing these down over a baitcaster as well, though I think the actual number of parts is about the same. It does take longer for me to service a spinning reel because of the bail parts also needing done, not just the gearcase guts, but for some reason baitcasters make me nervous. I've done a few when I first began that came out not quite right and had to be opened up again and the parts reassembled in a different (correct) order the second time. Haven't had that issue in years but somehow I always expect it on baitcasters.
I got adventurous with my PQ...it ended up in LMG's hands who was able to put it back together for me lol.
Quote from: LgMouthGambler on February 25, 2016, 08:12:48 PM
Yeah. The drive gear is black, but its aluminum.
Looking at it clean; I see it is aluminum. A lot of dirty grease in this reel. The black color fooled me.
Quote from: Hobbes on February 26, 2016, 07:29:55 AM
Looking at it clean; I see it is aluminum. A lot of dirty grease in this reel. The black color fooled me.
Yep me too at first, it's the same gear they use in the chronarch 50 I believe. Very light weight.
Quote from: Mike Cork on February 26, 2016, 08:19:35 AM
Yep me too at first, it's the same gear they use in the chronarch 50 I believe. Very light weight.
Not the E series, thats a brass gear.
It's the 50 MG according to my schematics.
That one, yes.
Quote from: rickdelprado on February 26, 2016, 06:07:26 AM
I got adventurous with my PQ...it ended up in LMG's hands who was able to put it back together for me lol.
I did that around a year ago with one of my Lews reels. Thought I had laid out the parts in the correct order, etc. and when I started to put it back, accidentally dropped it, parts went flying and ended sending it to Kevin of Pro Reel, a former sponsor so from then on I limit myself to basic oiling and greasing. You mechanical geniuses can do the hard stuff. ~roflmao
An old bath towel ( preferably light in color ) spread on your work table helps keep parts from rolling off the table. I use RemOil in a spray can for bearings and cleaning parts, the little plastic '' straw '' is very handy. A toothbrush is also a must. An assortment of different size and headed QUALITY screwdrivers will also make life easier,also tooth picks. But the most important tool is a good set of READING GLASSES for us old poots ::) RH